This was to be our last stop before heading back to Christchurch and on to Sydney, so we were a bit sad.  The time has gone so quickly in NZ!

We arrived at our Hostel in good time after a 4 hour journey from Kaikoura and went into Akoroa.  Akoroa is on the Banks Peninsular - which is basically a huge natural harbour formed by a volcanic explosion thousands of years ago.  It has many french street names due to the French landing and colonising the area and although it claims a lot of French influence, it is a bit more like a more quiet version of Dartmouth (and that is meant as a compliment!).

Jeremy went on a "swimming with dolphins" trip (beware those of a nervous disposition when if you look at the photos of his face underwater and in a wetsuit in general!).  It was amazing - swimming with a pod of Hectors Dolphins (the smallest sea-leaving dolphins in the world) for 45 minutes as they swam around the group of 10 swimmers.  The dolphins came very close indeed, although the bacteria contained on a humnan is apparently very harmful (or so they told us!) so no-one could make physical contact with them.  Although there was very low visibility in the water (although it looked so emerald and clear), underwater and wearing a mask Jeremy was able to see the dolphins come to within a couple of feet and look him directly in the eye - which apparently is very common in dolphin behaviour.  It was an unforgettable experience.

Sadly, the weather didn't hold and the following day we headed back to Christchurch for the final 4 days in the rain! 

**Photos to be updated soon!**

Since Christchurch wasn't delivering the van or the sun that we were promised we decided to visit a small "charming French town" just South of Christchurch in the middle of an extinct Volcanoe. The three of us (Jess having arrived from the airport a mere day ago) set off on a tour bus and were greeted with what had been missing, sunshine and hills !! We got very excited about the prospect of so many hills and as we looked over the walks that were possible madness descended and our choice of walk went up from the 1 hour, past the 5 hour and onto the 7 hour MOUNTAIN walk. We packed sandwiches and set off for what had been described as a gentle slope and as we faced the impassable skislope before us instantly regretted our decision. However we carried on and made it to the top of the 2,200 ft MOUNTAIN. On our descent we stopped off at Tree Tops Farm where they served us fresh berry juice mixed with herbs and then we treated ourselves to fish n chips on the harbour front.

After being in Christchurch for far too long, we decided to head out to the coast; and the small town of Akaroa. Small town in NZ means an estate agent and a pie shop...and Akaroa fit the bill perfectly. Despite the feeling of complete isolation however, the surrounding countryside was breathtaking! After indulging in fish and chips by the lakeside, we decided to throw on our walking gear and head off on a tramp around the surrounding area. Out of a choice of 10 short walks...we decided to go for the one entitled 'around the mountain' which recommended 'moderate fitness' and took '4-7 hours.' Had we lost our minds? 'Around the mountain' actually meant up to the summit and over the top...4-7 hours meant 9 hours, and moderate fitness meant 'world class athlete.' there were times where we thought we couldn't go on. Others where we almost  called out the rescue helicoptors. But despite drama, dehydration, and utter delerium...we emerged victorious. And then treated ourselves to a few pints of beer.....just to undo all the good work. 

Departed from Lyttleton Harbor around 4PM.  The trip was going to be around 8 hours to Akaroa.  The water was calm, but as we got further away from land, it became windy and the water was choppy.  Mistake number one, I downed a glass of honey ale on empty stomach.  It was all good at first, but then I started feeling nauseated.  Mistake number two, I didn't have a bag or bucket nearby.  By the time I got the bucket, I had vomitted most of it on the floor and some on my pants.  I've never gotten seasick before in my life, so I think the beer along with the choppy water had a lot to do with it.  Mistake number three, I didn't bring an extra pair of pants.  I was able to wipe most of it off with a wet cloth so it didn't smell as bad.  Took a seasick pill but I still vomitted several times during the trip.  I finally lay down on the bed and fell asleep without further emptying my stomach.

Arrived at Akaroa around midnite.  It was dark and visibility was bad so we had to sail at a snail's pace to avoid crashing into other boats.  The stars were out and there were a gazillion of them.  I tried looking for the Southern Cross but couldn't find it.  Found a spot to dock the boat and then went to sleep.

Woke up early the next morning to catch the sunrise.  The town was still quiet but gradually more and more people came out to have breakfast.  We cooked steak, mushrooms, and potatos on the boat for brunch.  Akaroa is a charming harbour village with a distinctive French flavor as you can tell by the street names and the small cottages.  Walked around town, chilled out on the pier and just enjoying the great view from across the bay.  There were a lot of activities available such as kayaking, jet boating, swimming with dolphins, hiking, sailing, etc.  It reminded me of Catalina Island, but with a nicer landscape.

We heard on the radio that weather conditions will be bad that nite so we prepared to sail back to Lyttleton ASAP to avoid it.  The radio was right, the wind was strong and it started to rain a little bit.  The waves were rocking the boat hard and water came inside.  We thought it was going to turn the boat over.  Most of the utensils on the shelf fell over.  Pretty scary experience.  Luckily we made it back at Lyttleton that nite safe and sound. 

Stopped here overnight in the campervan. It's a small french settlement just outside of Christchurch. Spent the morning wondering round the little shops and then headed back in to Christchurch. Looks like it would be a lovely place to come on a weekend for lunch or something but wasn't alot going on while we were there.

(Rob) Again, up early to catch the mini-bus to Akaroa, then spent a very pleasant couple of hours in the town - a lovely position out on the peninsula where the sea inlet is the main feature overlooked by steep mountains and bush. Arrived at Onuku Farm backpackers having been transported by the hostel truck out on the edge of the coast into what can only be described as the next thing to Paradise! Nestled very naturally into its surrounding - accommodation is extended around the original farm building - a hotch-potch of shacks, look-outs and sheds housing the toilet, shower and kitchen areas. PM. Explored the area which involved walking along the cliff tops, paths; often very steep at times and leading down to the water (Jan) This place is beautiful. Lots of birds, tropical bird sounds from the bush. Amazing kitchen and bathroom arrangements and very friendly people. There is the original wooden frame farmhouse with good sized lounge with piano and solid fuel stove, small kitchen, bedrooms and bathroom with 'in use' sign rather than lock. I think the house originally had a verandah on 2 sides but they'd used one side for another kitchen. There was a further kitchen outside on the 'balcony' enclosed by old landrover windscreens and plastic roofing but fully equipped. We had a walk to the 'beach' (stony) in the evening with lovely light as we walked back with the sun going down. We saw a bellbird which is pretty non-descript but is the origin of the lovely tropical sounds. We also explored the site and found the trampers hut for those doing the 4 day Banks Peninsula. It looked lovely and we would guess well set up as well as big. Also found Bush Retreat hidden away in the woods which is a B&B. Favourite was Stargazer which is a small stilted hut with just a matress on the floor and candles and windows in the low roof to watch the stars. Idyllic. The camping area was lovely too, tucked into a sheltered part of the woods. They were well spaced out together with huts for sleeping and good kitchen areas as well as hammocks whcih we had a swing in. Rob broke on much to the amusement of some girls. We enjoyed chatting with Alison, a Kiwi on holiday with her teenage son. Volleyball was also on offer at a set time each day, chickens and dogs running around and a chance to feed the pigs! If we had been here on Sunday, we would have had homemade muffins for breakfast on the house.

This place is the next best thing to Paradise. We'd never seen anywhere so beautiful. If we'd have gone here first after landing, I don't think we'd have ever wanted to have moved on. We certainly would have been back again at some point in our holiday and would have booked the Stargazer hut, preferably on a clear night. Another option would have been to camp. You have got to take all your food with you that you would need as it is a 3 mile + trek back into town for the nearest shop. We chose to kayak with the dolphins. Not everyone is lucky enough to see them. Swimming with them from a boat was also available but from talking to people, the kayaking sounded like the better choice. The hostel itself is one on it's own with lots of quirky things to spot. Very laid back and very helpful.