We awoke today after the boat had stopped and I felt much better!  Being sea sick was not fun.

After breakfast we head to Santa Fé island.  We saw several juvenile Galapagos hawks there.  They were amazing looking.  A couple of them were perched right on top of the national park sign and they watched you as you walked by just a couple of feet away.  I believe I read or was told that there are only a few hundred Galapagos hawks left so we felt pretty fortunate.

We also saw land iguanas and large tree-like cacti.  If I remember correctly, these land iguanas hang out and wait for the cacti pads to fall off (the pads look similar to prickly pear pads) so they can eat them for food and moisture.

After the island tour, I went snorkeling again (Rachel has decided that the water is too cold and the wetsuits too icky to snorkel).  I tried a wetsuit this time.  The last time I wore a wet suit was 20 years ago when I was small enough to borrow Neil's, my friend, wetsuit.  If you know Neil, you might find this surprising as he is now 3 inches taller and 50 pounds lighter than me.  After seeing the wicked sunburns that people had developed after snorkeling in the short wetsuits, I chose the full wetsuit.  Those things aren´t easy to put on!

While snorkeling, I saw sea turtles, sea lions, fish and pelicans.  The sea lions were amazing.  The younger ones will swim right up to you to check you out.  Being nose to face mask with a creature that can swim circles around me is not an experience I'll forget anytime soon.

During lunch we motored to another island, South Plazas.  Frigate birds accompanied our boat and fought for the top perch, our antenna mast.

At South Plazas we saw marine iguanas, sea lions, storm petrels, swallow-tailed gulls, and red-billed tropic birds.  The vegetation was cacti and an amazing red, succulent-looking bush.

To get to the Baltra airport this morning, we had to take a taxi to the ferry to the bus to the airport. Because of all these connections, we left 4 hours prior to our departure time, based on the recommendation from the hotel owner. And of course we got to the airport really early. Hmmm, killing time at an airport, again. Sound familiar?

Our excursion today was to the island of Floreana (a.k.a. Santa Maria), which was one of the earliest to be inhabited by humans. There was noticeably far less wildlife here, because many of the animal species introduced by humans have affected the endemic population considerably. For example, the Floreana mockingbird is extinct on the island (it still exists on two small nearby islets and is one of the world's rarest birds), probably because of feral cats, black rats, and goats (which eat their food).

Our first stop was Cormorant Bay, where mangrove trees (and a few sea lions) dotted the olive-colored sand beach. We walked inland to Cormorant Lagoon, where flamingoes were busy dredging the mucky bottom in search of shrimp, the food that gives the birds their pink color. There were dozens of flamingoes, including two babies (not yet pink). The landscape was gray and almost mournful, the atmosphere so quiet. It was a very peaceful place.

After we circled the bay, we walked back to shore, where we saw a couple of turtles swimming just off shore and many turtles tracks on the sand. Green sea turtles nest on this island starting in December, and Daniel said that sometimes the females come ashore early to "check things out" in advance of the big event. There were also DOZENS of sting rays right off shore, appearing as dark shadows in the water. For this reason, we could not go swimming or snorkeling here... they are too easy to step on and apaprently that doesn't feel very good at all.

Walking further along the beach, saw saw our first and only Galapagos Penguin, but unfortunately the little guy was dead... so sad.

We then explored on our own a bit, picking our way across the black rocks to observe hundreds of red Sally Lightfoot crabs (I love that name). The adults are bright red, and are so different from the dark youth that they appear to be a different species altogether. I took way too many pictures as usual...and I will delete half of them later. As usual. 

Later that morning, we had the most incredible snorkle trip to one of the Floreana Islets (it may have been called Devil's Crown... not sure). There was an unbeliable number of fish here. I have never seen so many different types all in one place... the water was THICK with them. And they were HUGE! The current swept us along briskly, and I just watched the incredible show pass below me. It was cold, but I didn't want to get out. Wonderful.

Last night was our first night onboard, so I think the ocean should have given us a break. But that was not the case... we rocked the night away. Luckily, I didn't feel seasick, just annoyed that the bed kept moving. It was hard to sleep, although Steve was helped greatly by a anti-motion tablet.

After an early (and really good) buffet breakfast we all boarded two Zodiacs bound for Gardner Bay on the island of Espanola. The beach -- which seemed like white sugar, but it was actually pulvarized white coral -- was COVERED in sunbathers. More Galapagos sea lions, of course! Daniel walked us down the beach, stopping frequently for informative lectures about the species. Very interesting. He then let us explore on our own (within boundaries, as the park service limits where humans can and cannot tred). At the end of the beach I spotted my first Marine Iguana, still as a statue and splayed out on the sand. They have to sun themselves frequently to stay warm and tend to really stretch out for maximum exposure. Near him were several other iguanas, and we excited tourists clustered together, snapping photos like crazy. As if they were going to run away or something. The iguanas stared and blinked, but otherwise didn't move. Bizarre looking creatures. No one knows why they are red.

Steve was still kind of dazed by the anti-motion pill he had taken and opted out of the next excursion -- snorkeling at Gardner Island. The water was deeper here, and colder than yesterday. Jumping in was quite a shock to the system! After just a few minutes we were joined by two sea lions -- they are so playful! I could swim with these guys every day and would never grow tired of their antics. I didn't last long today, though.  It was too cold, so I got out of the water after they left. The others in our group snorkeled into  a large cave where another guide was playing with a sea lion. He would swim down deep and do a somersault, then the sea lion would mimic his actions. I am sorry I missed that show!

After lunch and "siesta time" (most of us read on the sun deck) (Steve was STILL passed out), we had another excursion. This stop was at Suarez Point, on the other end of Espanola. The ground there was blanketed by iguanas (we had to watch where we were walking lest we trip over one!), and sea lions roamed freely as usual. Right away we noticed a couple of dead baby sea lions. We speculated that maybe this island was unhealthy for them or something, but Daniel explained that the babies die on every island (sometimes when the mom goes fishing she gets eaten instead. If the mom dies, so does the baby), but the tide usually takes away the bodies. The tide here does not reach this beach, so the carcasses are left to rot. Bummer.

The path we followed from the beach was very rocky, and I quite nearly fell down when I saw the first Blue Footed Booby sitting RIGHT on the path. Oh, I just love these birds! They have a perpetually perplexed countenance, and of course, those cute blue feet. We walked right alongside many of them, including some who were sitting on eggs, seemingly right out in the open. (Wouldn't a nest be handy, and more comfortable? Instead, they perch right on the rocky ground). They always looked at us with mild curiosity, and never moved out of our way.

We saw many other birds as well. I do not typically get into bird watching like this, but it's so easy and fun here because they aren't afraid of humans. It was so interesting! We saw many Red-billed Tropicbirds, which nest in the cliffs. When they return home it looks like they are slamming into the cliff at high speed! They are pretty easy to identify, even for me, with a bright white body and a long tail.

We also met the Wave Albatross, a bird that spends up to four year years in a row at sea, returning to land only when it is time to mate. We were thrilled to spot several babies (again, they nest right next to the walking path and don't seem to mind the tourist traffic at all). The babies are big, brown, and ugly, appearing to be no relation at all to their sleeker parents. We saw one happy family practicing their courtship. The mom and dad dueled with their beaks, then they would open wide, move to the left, move to the right... do a funny walk. They were hilarious! The baby sat nearby, presumably taking notes for when he finds a mate.

Funny enough, the albatross does not seem to be particularily adept at landing. Many times they would first do a fly-by to check out the situation. Sometimes they would abort on final approach for a go-round. And to take off, they need to plunge off a cliff and catch the wind... we saw one funny albatross waddling along the tourist path from inland, looking for a cliff, I guess.  I just can't explain how incredible it was to see these animals close up like this, unphased by our observations. I love it, love it, love it here!

The evening followed the same pattern as before -- we had some time for relaxing, a long discussion with Daniel (who lectured on human presence on the islands in preparation for our visit to Floreana tomorrow), then a great dinner. Then... collapsing on the (still rocking) bed from sheer exhaustion.  What a great big, wonderful day.

Today we met up with the cruise ship that will be our home for the next four days, called the Seaman II. In addition to a covered teak deck and a large sun deck, there are 8 cabins for 16 passengers, a large dining room with a bar off to the side, and a "living room" near the bar with a huge sectional sofa. Our room is on the upper deck and surprisingly spacious, and has a private bathroom with a shower. Everything is neat as a pin and in tip-top shape. So far so good!

Since our hotel was right near the pier we boarded the boat early, before the other passengers had arrived from the airport. There was one couple already on board -- Gavin and Sibella, Australians -- who were in the middle of the 8-day cruise option. We were given lunch, then we went to the top sun deck to wait for whatever would happen next. In a short time I managed to get fried... better break out the sunblock!

Meanwhile, the other passengers boarded, ate lunch, and then the boat set off to our first destination, called Sleeping Lion Rock. This was a big volcanic rock jutting from the ocean, inhabited by grasses and birds, with dozens of sea lions lounging around the perimeter. Our naturalist, Daniel, pointed out the Nazca Boobies (birds), and there were also many of the ever-present Magnificent Frigatebirds circling overhead. Daniel called them "pirates" for their tendency to follow the boat.

Our next stop was Lobos Islet for snorkeling. We rented gear, including a much-needed wetsuit (the water is about 65F). I hadn't been in the water five minutes when I heard a muffled splash next to me and looked over to see a bird torpedoing through the water! It was a Blue Footed Booby after a fish -- he missed the fish but managed to nearly give this tourist heart failure. I was a little slow with the camera but did manage to capture his bubble trail and I got a shot of him flying off (without a catch, by the way. Daniel said they have to make a lot of dives to catch one fish.)

About a minute later Steve spotted a sea turtle, which Daniel identified as a Pacific Green. Already this snorkle adventure was better than most of the dives we've done on this trip! And it didn't end there... we also saw three sting rays, and Steve saw a shark, but it swam off quickly.

Then suddenly, I saw a big-eyed brown monster swimming straight for me, playing a game of underwater chicken! I was really startled... what the heck is it...?! A SEA LION! The playful youth swerved to miss me at the last moment, then circled me several times with the agility of a gymnast. Steve said he nibbled on my fin too! I was so excited I nearly swallowed my snorkle. Life does not get much better than playing with sea lions in the Galapagos Islands.

Back on board, Daniel (who BTW is a Galapagos native and has been a naturalist for 19 years) gave us a briefing on tomorrow's excursions. We also made more formal introductions with the other guests. In addition to the Aussies, there is a couple from London, and all the others are American and know each other through work. After our meeting we had a pretty good meal (plenty of veggies :^) and good conversation at the table. I like our group and am looking forward to the next four days.

GREAT DAY. My visit to Galapagos could end right now (god forbid) and I would have had a fantastic experience. And there is more to come!

An uneasy heron has agreed to share the hotel patio with me, so here I lay on the hammock, watching him and about 4 million other birds around this small bay. I am not a bird watcher, really, but I have been here for almost 3 hours. It's an incredible display: Blue Footed Booby birds keep dive bombing the water for fish, but seem to come up empty handed (er, beaked) every time. Brown pelicans soar by me like prehistoric 747s, close enough for me to see into their cold eyes. Far above, Magnificent Frigatebirds glide like kites, occasionally making way for flocks of white birds (Tropicbirds I think) that keep passing through. It's quite a show. The place is teeming with life.

I have decided to take it easy this afternoon. I am a little battered and bruised after this morning's brutal-but-excellent dive trip to Gordon Rocks. My body needs a break, hence the hammock. (I wish I had a margarita too!)

It all started at 6:45am when I made my way to the dive shop at Albatross Tours. When the whole group had arrived (a Londoner named Tom, a father and son from Argentina, and a couple from Russia) we made our way to the harbor and started to board a small boat. I looked at the huge waves out there in the water, then to the wee boat, then back to the waves... surely this piece of crap isn't the dive boat!? I decided that it must be the taxi boat that would take us to the "real" boat, which would be nice, big, and comfortable. I was wrong. It was our dive boat. Oh boy.

To make things more fun, the captain had apparently decided to break some sort of speed record on the way to the first stop. The small boat flew from wave to wave, jarring us all and probably loosening some filllings. At this point I was very glad Steve hadn't come... he would have hated this ride! I was surprised no one got sick. Crazy ride.

Our first stop, at the North Plaza (or was it the South Plaza?), was for a test dive. The dive master, Jimbo, wanted to use this calm area to make sure we were properly weighted and comfortable with the equipment before the real dive. Considering the challenging conditions we would face at Gordon Rocks, I think this test dive was an excellent idea! I jumped in the calm water with my big fat 7mil wet suit, and wouldn't you know I was so puffy I couldn't descend even when weighted with 8kg (17 lbs)! I went back for more weight, then had a good test dive, wearing a whopping 10kg (22lbs). (For comparison: I use 8lbs in the Caribbean).

After our check dive it was time for the real thing: Gordon Rocks, a set of two or three immense black rocks protruding from the ocean. The waves were NUTS. As the five of us gamely clutched the edge of the violently rocking boat, about to backroll into the churning cauldron below, Jimbo screamed out, "WELCOME TO THE GALAPAGOS!!! ONE-TWO-THREE- GOOOOO!"  Off I rolled, and down we went.  

On previous dives all over the world, the instruction I have received is always, always, always: DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING! Here, we were given gloves and told, HANG ON FOR DEAR LIFE! The current and surge were unlike anything I have ever experienced. It pushed me one way, then the other, then up, then down. We went as deep as 95 feet (29 meters) and clutched on to the rocks and coral, searching in vain for the area's main attraction: hammerhead sharks. The Russian guy used up his air very fast and had to ascend early, but the rest of us managed about 40 minutes, a pretty long dive considering the conditions and depth. My dive buddy (Tom from London) caught a glimpse of one hammerhead, but the rest of us missed it and we saw one lone turtle, but not much else. I went back to the boat disappointed.

After a surface interval (and lame lunch) in a calm area, we returned to the bubbling brew for another shot at the Hammerheads. This entry made the last one look like a walk in the park. After a backroll into the water, the waves pushed me back into the boat, and I had to swim hard through the surf to get away. Tom was not so lucky and smacked his head on the boat. As I made a thumb's down signal ("descending"), he was rubbing his head but giving me the "OK" signal. 

From there, everything kind of went to hell. I yanked the air dump valve on the bottom of my BCD, and it came off in my hand. To get the air out of my vest I had to change from a head's down swimming position to a head's up position. I finally got the air out but lost control of my body in the surge, and descended into or with a cluster of other divers. I could not seem to break free of the group, and we were all being forcibly swept down and away by the crazy current -- right into the rocks! I gripped my regulator in my mouth, pretty determined that it would stay with me no matter what, and happily, it did.  But I had no control as the surge slammed me into the rocks, HARD (ouch!). I grasped at the rocks frantically and hung on with all my might, pulling myself down hand over hand until the water was less turbulent. I was then able to gather my courage (and my dive buddy), and the group parked itself down there, clinging to the rocks like scared seaweed. 

I stared into the abyss intently, and... THERE! HAMMERHEAD! I let go long enough to punch Jimbo, wave frantically at Tom, and make the silly "hammering my head" signal, and we observed the magnificent creature swimming slowly by. INCREDIBLE. And then right away... two more! They swam so slowly, unlike most sharks that more very quickly AWAY from the divers. (Jimbo later told us this area was a cleaning station. They come here to allow other fish clean their parasites, hence the slow pace.) I checked my dive computer. I had been in the water exactly four minutes. WOW!

We didn't cover much distance on this dive. We just stayed parked and watched the Hammerheads go by, about eight in all. Fantastic! On the way up, we saw a Spotted Eagle Ray below us (on the way home, I saw another one jumping out of the water!).  It was a rough dive and my left leg hurts where it hit the rocks (glad I had all that padding), but it was WELL WORTH the effort. It is so rare to see hammerheads like that.

The ride home was just plain crazy. We went even faster this time, in an effort to get the Russians to their 1:30 boarding time with a cruise ship (we made it just in time).  I almost got sick, even thought I don't GET seasick, and the whole 90 minutes (or so) I wished with all my might to be back on land. Soon enough, I got my wish. And here I am, rocking gently on the hammock and watching my birds. Oh, and there's a sea lion swimming calmly by.

Nice day.



 

Our first stop today was the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island. This center was established in 1964 by the Charles Darwin Foundation to conduct research and provide education for conservation in the Galapagos. The center has a breeding program for Galapagos Land Iguanas and Land Tortoises, which was the focus of our visit.

I have seen photos of the giant tortoises of Galapagos, but pictures really didn't prepare me for how incredibly HUGE these creatures are up close. WOW! They are like small automobiles! We saw dozens of them -- some very, very old (they live about 200 years), collected from individuals who used to keep them as "pets" before the national park was created in 1959. There were also many baby turtles, bred at the center and waiting until their fifth birthday to be released into the wild, each species to the island from whence his breed originally came (each island developed independently and has its own breed or breeds of turtles).

The most interesting guy at the center is Lonesome George. His breed was thought to be extinct when he was found by a student on Pinta Island in the 1970s... the last turtle on the island. He was brought to the center and a search for a mate began. They have called zoos and institutions across the world looking for a female Pinta turtle, all to no avail... Lonesome George remained lonesome. Finally, two similar breed females were introduced to his corral in hopes that they would breed. And twelve years later, they finally have! Scientists are waiting to find out if the new eggs are viable.

We also saw Land Iguanas, which are also being bred at the center. (Both iguanas and turtles were highly endangered on the islands because passing sailors kept eating them.) This was a good stop, and it was very interesting.

After Charles Darwin, our group broke up to explore the town of Puerto Ayora on our own. Steve and I did some shopping, checked in to the hotel, and I also signed up to go on a dive trip tomorrow (!). (Steve has work to do, so I will be going it alone.)

Later, we all met up again and boarded a bus bound for the highlands of Santa Cruz. Since we hadn't gotten the nice little snacks and cocoa that we have become accustom to on the boat, we were all ravenous! Lunch was slow and quiet, and when we finished it seemed we were all ready for a siesta. But it was time to board the bus again... we were off to see more turtles, this time in the wild. I expected something akin to tracking lions in Africa (except slightly less thrilling), but there was no need for stealth and long searches here -- when we got to Primicias Ranch we found turtles EVERYWHERE. Immobile as glaciers, they slowly grazed on the long grass and twigs, hissing and pulling in their worried-old-man heads if anyone got close.

Back at the hotel, the group from the Seaman II reconvened on the hotel patio for drinks, dinner and goodbyes. We all wished for more time in the Galapagoes, and Steve and I will actually get it: the rest of the group flies out tomorrow, but we have arranged to stay an extra night on Santa Cruz. I hope to spend that extra time in the company of hammerhead sharks on tomorrow's dive!

As I sit in my hotel room writing this I am listening to a funny barking/yelping sound outside. It’s the Galapagos Sea Lions on the beach in front of the hotel. It’s just been a half day here, but YES, I like it so far. And it’s only going to get better.   

We left Quito early this morning after spending a mere 7 hours in the hotel room (so much for seeing Quito). Paul from CarpeDM Travel picked us up and brought us to the airport, where we had to purchase tickets, get a special Galapagos card, and then wait for our flight, which brought us here to San Cristobal Island via Guayaquil.

The airport in San Cristobal was very small and it was hot and humid out, really reminding me of the Caribbean. Unfortunately the hotel did not send a ride, so we waited for a taxi with the locals (all the tourists got into prearranged mini-buses or trucks). The taxi-trucks kept driving past us, so we thought we would wait forever, when finally a guy stopped. He didn’t speak English and kept barraging us with questions we didn’t understand, but somehow we got to our hotel, Miconia. The hotel is definitely a work in progress, but it’s OK.

I was so tired and really wanted a nap, but I couldn’t sleep because I was too excited to be in the Galapagos. While Steve tried to sleep, I walked down to the pier and discovered several sea lions basking on the cement pier stairs. So cute! They were completely impervious to the humans around them.

I then walked through the “town” trying to find water and food, but everything was closed since it is Sunday. I returned to the room and told Steve about the sea lions, and then we went out together and walked all the way down the beach to the edge of town. There were sea lions all the way, including some wee little babies. I love watching them.
 
We then decided to walk to the highly recommended Interpretation Center, but it was closed when we got there. There was a trail carved out of lava rock that led away from there, so we followed it past a beach being used by sea lions and humans alike, then through a barren cactus and shrub forest to a couple of outlook points along the way. We were looking for Frigatebirds, but I only know what they look like on the ground, with their red breasts all puffed up… we didn’t recognize the birds flying above us as Frigates until we saw a picture of them later. 

For dinner, we ate at the hotel -- a big disappointment. Steve had a flavorless fish curry dish and I had a salad (about two lettuce leaves and a pile of cucumbers. I hate cucumbers) and a small boiled potato. When we left I was still hungry, so we went off to find more food. I bought some yogurt, but it was spoiled. Dang. Oh well, even with no dinner, things aren't so bad. We are in the GALAPAGOS Islands, after all, a place I have dreamed about visiting seemingly my whole life.  I just can't wait to see the things I am going to see here!



 

The Galagagos are probably best known for being the islands that inspired Darwin's The Origin of Species. Incredibly, in spite of growing tourism and the impact of human habitation, the islands have changed relatively little since Darwin's time. Tourism is managed intelligently by limiting the numbers of tourists allowed at any of the islands at a time and by using smaller boats to cruise between the islands instead of big cruise ships. A Galapagos cruise is like no other. Don't expect luxury like traditional cruises, do expect otherwordly landscapes, incredible creatures, an adventure you won't forget!
The archipelago consists of 15 islands, of which 5 are inhabited. All have their own character and interesting points. The best way to visit would be on a boat tour. Land based tours are also available (and a bit cheaper) but since the islands are quite far away from each other, you won't see as much and will be spending a lot of time at sea. Trips are available in different durations, mostly 4 to 5 days, 7 to 8 days, or 10 days. The shortest trips really don't allow much time on the islands because the first and last days are travelling days from the mainland (a 2 to 3 hour's flight).

The Galapagos are also known as one of the premier dive spots of the world. But even if you are not a diver you can enjoy the underwater world on a snorkelling trip. We snorkelled at a couple of islands and swimming with the sea lions was one of the highlights of our trip! And we swam with sharks! Twice! I never imagined I would be doing such a thing in my life!

I am overwhelmed.  There is just too much to say about the last week on the Galápagos, or maybe I´m just getting lazy after a year of blogging.  Either way, I plan to save most of my stories for in person chats with family and friends when I return home next month, but feel free to send me questions.  My main message is this:  GO!  I know it is expensive, but if you can, organize your trip when you reach Quito.  You will save money.  I talked to one gal on my boat who was also doing the five-day cruise and she paid twice what I did because she booked from home.  That´s a lot of money when you consider how much I paid.  So if you have the time, get to Quito, book your trip a week or two in advance, and then travel around for a while before it starts.  You can also do it on your own.  I just met some students here from the States and they flew out there and hung around for a week, bargaining for day tours at good rates.  I think there was some major flirting going on on their part to get these deals, but you can just go out there and piece things together. 

Having said that, I loved, loved, loved my tour.  We flew into Baltra and then headed to the islands of South Plaza, Santa Fe, Espanola (the best this time of year in the south) and Floreana before returning back to Santa Cruz and the largest city of Puerto Ayora.  Sometimes we traveled between islands overnight, sometimes by day while I laid flat on my back to avoid being sick.  Our days went mostly like this:  early rise, big breakfast (as was lunch and dinner), jump in the dingy for a wet or dry landing on one of the islands, explore, take loads of pictures, learn a ton of info from our guide, and then back to the boat for lunch.  We usually had an afternoon siesta and then an afternoon snorkeling session before dinner.  I can´t think of a better way to live!  The wildlife was the highlight, but I also lucked out and had a fun group on my boat (mostly my age), a great guide, hilarious Capitan and good crew. 

My favorite activity was snorkeling.  My last afternoon I swam with sea lions.  One played with me for a while, circling around me and blowing bubbles.  Every once in a while a penguin would dart by.  I even snuck up on one hanging on the surface, but when he saw me, off he went.  I´m sure the fact I live in a landlocked state and don´t do this very often is part of my excitement, but I couldn´t get enough of it.  At one point we were snorkeling off this big rock, but there was a major current pushing us along causing me and four other girls to get separated from the group.  Luckily we ended up following the assistant guide, who at one point swam down to the bottom, grabbed something and brought it back up.  It was a puffer fish that was fully expanded as its defense by the time he reached us.  He was round and the size of a volleyball. Oh I wished I had an underwater camera then!  We each held him and then off he went.  What a treat!  That day we saw the most sharks, sea turtles and other underwater creatures, including a moray eel.  The other amazing thing I saw one day was this massive school of fish.  As I approached I thought it was a big rock, but upon getting closer, saw it was a group of dark fish, thousands in all.  Once in a while one would turn sideways, revealed a silver glow from the deep below. 

On land there was much to see and you could get up so close to the wildlife.  I saw about 15-20 speciecs of bird and about 15 other species of animal on land and underwater.  I loved the Blue-footed Boobies.  We lucked out and saw the Waved Albatross mating on Española.  Every time of year there is something special happening.  It´s just never a bad time to be there.  Of course there are a ton of Marine Iguanas everywhere, always underfoot so you have to watch where you walk.  We only saw the Tortoise at the Darwin Research Centers on Santa Cruz and Isabela, but they are still in the wild. 

After my organized tour, I took a ferry over to the largest island of Isabela, home to about five volcanos.  I did a horseback riding tour to Sierra Negra, the oldest and highest one that just erupted in 2005.  You could see the lanes of lava flow that have since solidified into dark rock and ash.  The horseback ride was a little stressful as we had to trot through wet mud, with the horses slipping and sliding under us.  My horse managed to make it through without falling, but others were not so lucky.  It was really interesting to walk around in an active volcano!   I was glad I tacked on some extra days to see the volcano as I felt my trip to Isabela really rounded out my experience. 

I see that I´ve still managed to write a long blog despite my intentions, but there are so many little stories to tell. I´ll cut it here so I can get out and see Cuenca, where I am now.  I spent all day getting here and have to leave tomorrow for what will be two days of buses to get to Lima by Sunday.  So go to the Galapagos!.  I actually plan to go again someday, but next time I plan to be certified to dive with an underwater camera ready.    

This is the most amazing place on earth - a cross between Jurassic Park and Disneyland.  I got to swim with sea lions and just yesterday, I held a puffer fish!  I wanted to do a cartwheel in the water I was so excited.  I also saw about six white tail sharks and three sea turtles! This was just in the water during two snorkeling sessions.  On land, so much more. I´m still on the islands after having finished my organized tour.  Now I´ve got a few days to kick around on my own.  I´ll post pics and write about my experience in more detail later when I get back to the mainland as internet is so expensive and slow here.  By the way, boobies are aquatic birds.  My favorite are the blue-footed ones.  I can´t get over the wildlife here. 

I am now on the boat ‘Friendship’ at the Galapagos Islands with 16 other young people from all over the world. (Switzerland, France, Hungary, Israel, Finland, Ireland, Mexico, Belgium, Sweden, the Netherlands and USA) It is a fun group and I am looking forward to the remaining 7 days.  I spent a night sleeping on top deck above board as quarters are very close below deck and the air conditioning, mixed with diesel exhaust, next to the generator rooms, will kill me with my cough which persists until the point where I feel as if I will throw up.  Yesterday we saw many Frigate birds, blue footed boobies, sea lions, lava lizards, marine iguanas, land iguanas, sharks, marine turtles and other tropical fish.  Our guide is hilarious with his broken Spanglish describing ‘Look look, Lava Lizard!! - But how did it come?’ with great gusto and enthusiasm.  There are always things that you know. Then there are things you know you don’t know.  But there are many things I have seen here that I didn’t know that I didn’t know.  It is somewhat like being a small child again, discovering new things, and a lot of fun.  

DAY 3
(BOARDING ON THE XPEDITION)

YEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!! I AM HERE! I AM FINALLY HERE! MY DREAM IS HALF WAY FULLFILLED! 

It was a pleasant flight from Guayaquil to Baltra.  I slept to whole entire 2hrs flight. I woke up this in the nick time to take photos flying over Baltra and North Seymour. I saw a sand bank between it. the water was parts of turquoise and blue. It was a clear day in paradise.

As soon as we exited off the plane, a wall of humid heat slaps me on the face. A huge climate difference from Quito, it was cloudy and cool. All 90 of us walked over to immigration we all had our own card on the islands to ID us.

After 30min in line inside a wooden hut with open windows, we all jumped on a bus to take us on the zodiac (Mercedes Benz of rubber boats) boat to the Celebrity Xpedition ship. We were greeted with all the naturalists, William, “little” Jorge, Freddy, Manuel, and Jamie. Rogelio arrived on DAY 5.

At the dock, we were all welcomed by 4 sea lions sleeping on the benches which was marked “WELCOME TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS”. it sure was a nice welcome. We all took photos like we will never see a sea lion again. I think I took about 20 photos HAHAHAHA.  They are so cute, 4 females.

William reminded us not to touch the sea lions and to keep our distance. They live here. They had the right of way. Getting bitten by a sea lion before you start a trip is not a good way to go :)

Mum and I were excited.  We saw more sea lions under the dock some mocha color and dark color, all sleeping and being lazy. I WANT TO BE A SEA LION. NO BILLS, NO CLOTHES, NO BILLS, NO SHOES, NO BILLS….HAHAHAHAHA.

William was on my zodiac. He briefly talked about him and his life in the Galapagos Islands. He calls himself and the others “NATURALISTS” not tour guides. He like the others are born and raised in the Galapagos Islands. It is a requirement to be a Galapagos naturalists.  He has been with the company for over 20 years.  He and his family still lives in the Galapagos. All the naturalists live in Santa Cruz island near Baltra. There are 15,000 inhabitants living in Santa Cruz island. I also explained how to exit and enter  the boat safely. They use a “Galapagos hand shake” which is hand o forearm grip. Better to balance and grip without breaking a wrist.

Mum and I took photos of each other and the Xpedition approaching us.  The wind felt good on my face. Eduardo was our zodiac driver. There was an ice chest of bottled water already for us for the taking.  WOW it was humid.

WOW THAT IS ONE SMALL BOAT. We all entered on the aft of the boat.  There were faucets as well to wash off the sand on our feet. As soon as we removed our life jackets, we were greeted by Juan; he was carrying a silver platter of COLD ROLLED UP TOWELS to refresh us with.  WOW THAT’S SPOILED :P

“Big” Jorge, the cruise director welcomed us on board. He announced the routine when you enter the Xpedition. That everytime we get back on the ship, we must check in and sanitize with the hand sanitizer on the wall to prevent germs and colds during our adventure. It is suggested. I believe in hand sanitizers.

Mum and I went to our cabin. It was a good size cabin. ROOM 419 it is bigger than what we were normally used to. We were on DECK 4, the boat goes up to DECK 6, which is the spa, gym and Jacuzzi. I was use to the BIG BOATS like the Royal Caribbean “voyager of the seas” which has 16 decks. TOO MUCH BOAT FOR MELANIE :) the specs on the Xpedition is at the END of the blog.

After settling in, we went to have lunch and then have an “afternoon briefing” for today’s activities. The food was great. I took photos of our first meal. Dessert of course, cheesecake, chocolate cake, jello,  cream puffs, fruit bowls YUMMY :D there was tilapia, steak strips, rice, cheese plate and various salads and some traditional Ecuadorian side dishes.  In the afternoon we will be heading out North Seymour, to see sea lions and hopefully other wildlife. I hope to see whales and dolphins.

WOO HOO, SO FAR THIS ADVANTURE IS STARTING ON THE RIGHT FOOT……

WILDLIFE: 4-10 SEA LIONS

PEOPLE WITH WHITE LEGS: 90 HAHAHAHA

In the Galapagos Islands there are many kind of cruises that offer a wide range of services from a relaxing cruise tour around the Galapagos Islands up to a spectacular Galapagos Scuba Diving Cruise through the Galapagos Islands.

In the Galapagos Islands there are five galapagos islands cruises that have called my attention, which are Mistral, Parranda, Lammer Law, Alta and Evolution. These five vessels have made the experience of their passenger very pleasant.

Above I have gather five reviews of these five magnificent cruises, so if you are planning to go to the Galapagos Islands, you can chose your cruise from these five.

From the Evolution yacht Jeremy Madigan says the following: “I was amazed at the hospitality of people in Ecuador. The crew of the Evolution was fantastic: always attentive to our needs. The cruise director Javier does a marvelous job of making sure we are always happy. The guides Whitman and Roberto are excellent! Both are multilingual, knowledgeable and very patient with the group. We could not have asked for better crew and staff onboard.

The Galapagos Islands are the most wonderful place on earth. I have never been to a place where nature is so unharmed. The Galapagos National Park has done an incredible job to keep these islands intact. One would imagine that after more than 5 decades of receiving tourists, wildlife would start to fear humans, but that is not the case. I was literally inches away from boobies, sea lions, iguanas and tortoises! These islands are truly a nature-lover’s paradise.

The Evolution is a lovely ship. I have been on small cruises before and this boat definitely was the most spacious. There is easily room for about 50 guests but it is only for 32. Guests can enjoy the Jacuzzi, the aft lounge or the inner lounge all at the same time and we were never cramped. I had a chance to visit the bridge and was amazed at the instruments onboard and the knowledge of our captain. I am truly going to miss them all!”

About the Alta yacht Alan Billing has to say, “The crew of the Alta was extremely friendly. Francisco was always attentive during our meals and at the bar. Jose was an excellent captain and very kind. Julian was an excellent guide. One can tell that he has a passion for these islands and he really knows his stuff! As for Vicente, I can only say I admire his courtesy and competence. They are all truly great individuals.

The Galapagos Islands alone are incredible. Never in my life have I seen such odd looking creatures that are so fearless. We could have literally picked up the animals, that is how tame they were! The islands are ideal for snorkeling and kayaking: a favorite activity amongst the guests. I plan to come back with my children in a couple of years. These islands are a must on any traveler’s list.

The Lammer Law yacht has a very interesting review from Martin Rinard, “The Lammer Law is precisely my kind of ship for the perfect diving trip. I found out from our guide that this trimaran used to be the biggest trimaran in the world until only a few years ago! The outside space is incredible. I loved to relax after our dives on the sun deck as the winds carried us to the next islands. The space in the aft is great for setting up our gear and getting ready to dive. I was a great fan of the Nitrox.

Our guide Fabian was a great guy. Always humorous with the group, he was a big part of this trip for us all. On the land excursions he showed us that he was as knowledgeable about life above water as he was about life below it. I am definitely recommending him to my diver friends.

I will carry the memories of this trip for the rest of my life, along with the picture my friend took of me and a whale shark. I cannot thank enough the crew and staff of the Lammer Law for everything they did for us. Bravo”

Kristen Jakerbassa had a very interesting comment about the Mistral, “Our trip onboard the Mistral was fantastic. Everything went very smoothly from start to finish. The boat is beautiful and cozy. The staff is superb and their service is 5 stars. We couldn’t have asked for a better crew, and the food onboard was delicious!

We have taken many dive trips around the world, but this trip has topped them all. The marine reserve of Galapagos Islands is extremely healthy and swarming with life! Thank you Quasar Expeditions and thank you to the crew of the Mistral”

At last about the Parranda Joe Murphy says, “The crew, guide and boat were wonderful. I could not have asked for a better trip. The guide and crew were extremely nice and helpful to all members of our group throughout the entire week. I have been told that I ask too many questions, but Alex, our guide, answered them all with great enthusiasm. He made me feel like I was really adding something to this trip.

The itinerary that we followed could not have been better. In just 7 days we encompassed the entire archipelago onboard the Parranda. We were amazed at how different wildlife is from one island to the other and we were clearly able to see how each has adapted to the different conditions and terrain of the islands they inhabit. Evolution is an evident reality on this archipelago! Never in my life could I have imagined wildlife that was so tame. It even seemed like they had been domesticated. Thank you for such a wonderful trip.”

You have read all the insights now choose which boat you like and have your voyage of your life around the Galapagos Islands.

This trip was the reason I started to travel. I remember writing a report on the Galapagos penguin in the fourth grade. Since then, I knew eventually I'd make it there. My friend Tracey and I started the journey in Quito for a few days. Our hotel hooked us up with a wonderful driver and we took two day trips out of the city.
Our first was to the Equator monument and museum. The monument was, well, a monument. A big red line painted on the ground. Ironic because I often make a huge point to my students how the equator isn't an ACTUAL line. The museum was amazing! We saw some replicas of indiginous homes and a look into their lives. But the highlight was the experiments at the equator. On the REAL equator you loose 20% of your strength and can't walk a straight line. We saw water fall straight down a drain, then only mere feet away saw the clockwise and counterclockwise swirls in the same portable sink. I would of loved to take my class on a field trip there.
Our second trip was out to the Otavalo Market. Many books boast it is the best market in South America. We went on New Years eve (Huge holiday there) so it was pretty quiet. Typical artsy fare. We also stopped at a lake on the way and saw beautiful country side. The best part of the day was witnessing a very strange New Years eve ritual. Men dress in drag and block the road and beg for money as if they were some poor hard luck women. Children do this and dress as old ladies. Young men do this and dress as sluts. We drove by a police acadamy with a particular ronchy one. Only one person in the group is actually dressed in drag the others just watch and laugh and help block the road.
The islands were ideal. As soon as we landed we saw animals. The sea lions, which I thought would be the least interesting , were my favorites. They have no fear of humans and just go about there buisness. Bright red crabs are everywhere. The blue footed boobies are adorable. We even caught a few engadging in their flashy mating dance where the males show off their feet. Marine and land iguanas are littered everywhere! They may look a little scary but just chill. Sea turtles where a little harder to spot but made an appearance. Unfortunantly, the only place to see the large land tortises was in the Darwin Center. I was a little suprised at the size of "Lonsome Georges" backside.