Gettysburg, PA is the culmination point and decisive point of the American Civil War.  From the early skirmishes between the Union Cavalry and the arriving Confederate forces, through the defeated Pickett's Charge, and the 20th Maine holding the far left flank with no ammunition on Little Round Top, the Battle of Gettysburg is one of the most studied battles in American history.

This was my second visit to Gettysburg on a clear blue day.  A great opportunity to experience and feel the terrain of such a great battle.  Walking on the hallowed ground where 58,000 soldiers lost their lives in less than 96 hours.

Many people travel from around the world to see this famous battlefield and I had the honor of visiting 3 times while living just 2 hours south in Washington, DC.

I have been to all of these PA destinations from this trip before, but I was in fifth or sixth grade and they weren't very significant to me then. I loved Gettysburg this time around. Devils Den is really cool. And I loved Gettysburg National Cemetery. I know it's weird, but I was fascinated by the old trees that were everywhere. You know these trees were standing during all of these historical events, it's like they are witnesses to our history. I am a dork, I know.

Miles Traveled: 307                                

Roads Traveled: I-271S/I-(4)80E/I-76E/US 30E                            

Time on the Road: 6 hours*                

States Crossed:  Ohio, Pennsylvania   

Tanks of Gas: .9                                      

CD’s Listened to: DJ Green Lantern, Common, Poe & The Big Chill Soundtrack

* Time on the Road includes the 1 hour spent eating dinner with my Mom and Don at a restaurant in Podunk, PA.  They were on their way back to Ohio from Maryland.  Only my family does this, by the way.  It is like a wacked version of a math question on the SAT.  If Jewels eats lunch with her Dad, Phil Rossi, in Cleveland at Noon and Terry and Don Weber eat lunch at 1pm in Baltimore and both of them leave their current locations within one hour of eating with Jewels in the Jeep traveling Eastbound at a constant speed of 70 mph and Terry and Don in the RV traveling Westbound at a constant speed of 57 mph and stop to let Kibby (the dog) out twice for 10 minutes, at what point in time and location in Pennsylvania will their paths cross?  You think that is insane?  This type of calculation also happened at the post 9/11 locked down Philadelphia International Airport • my mom was having a great time being searched and interrogated by heavily armed marines.  Cheers!

The Gettysburg Address

Four score and seven…never mind…we all know how it ends.

The Drive

I am a very observant driver and passenger.  I tend to see things while driving that others may not catch. (Hey, Michelle • 3 words: Starving Asia Canadias!)  Hence, I do plan on relaying amusing moments and fun-facts that I have learned while driving from town to town.  The first of which, are some relatively new road signs that I have never seen before.  When signs of this nature are posted, I can only ask myself, “What sort of tragic (idiotic) event happened that this sign had to be erected?”  Heading into the Allegheny tunnel in PA there are numerous signs posted that state “Do Not change lanes while in tunnel.  Please remove your sunglasses and turn on your headlights.  State Law.”  So, not only is it a suggestion, but the sunglasses rule was actually lobbied, taken to the State House floor, presented, argued over, voted on and passed?  Really?  What sort of moronic moment in the driving history of Pennsylvania led to this?  This is as bad as in Ohio where signs tell you that if you get in an accident to pull over to the side of the freeway and the other Ohio moment of legal genius, “Slow Down or Move Over for Stopped Vehicles.”  However, my favorite bit was that after the tunnel there was another sign reminding you to put your sunglasses back on and turn off your headlights.  And I thought that Kentucky was the state where education paid.  I also drove through an “Aggressive Driver Zone • High Crash Area!”  that asked motorists to “Be Alert and Arrive Unhurt.”  Apparently, the Pennsylvania Department of Transportation is just teeming with want to be sloganeers and ad men.  By the way, if anyone can tell me what “Brake Retarders Unlawful” means, I would love to know.

I learned some extremely fascinating things while on US 30 (that’s a blue line in the road atlas.)  First, I learned that there is a llama farm just of off I-76 exit 142.  If anyone wants one…I know where to find them!  Secondly, while driving on US 30 I learned that real life situational irony is one of the funniest things of all times.  Even though I had about ¼ tank of gas upon entering US 30 I didn’t know just how long I would be on it and/or when I would see another gas station.  Therefore, I stopped at the first one I could find.  (Totally old school • no pay at pump, cash only, does accept local checks!)  It turns out that the gas station was out of gas.  I have experienced this moment before, even in civilized parts of the world.  However, the clerk told me that the reason they were out of gas was that the semi-tanker that was driving to that station to deliver the gas had run out of gas on US 30 while coming from Gettysburg.  Hilarious! 

While en-route from the modern day civilization of I-76 to the tourist trap of American history that is Gettysburg I was very fascinated by what was advertised and up for sale along US 30.  Tucked in between swerves and curves ranging from 10 mph to 55 mph should you choose to veer your vehicle to the side of the road you can take a gander at the local wares of kitschy crap Americana.  There is Gill’s Goat Ranch (“fresh goat milk and goat pelts here” • so says the sign), Pine Trees (buy enough to build your own eternal Christmas theme park!), Land of Little Horses (exactly what it sounds like) and my favorite, Mr. Ed’s World Famous Elephant Museum complete with a life size plaster elephant statue out front.  Mr. Ed fancies himself quite the entrepreneur as he also peddles, World Famous Roast Peanuts and Homemade Candy & Fudge.

I also learned that there is a master plan afoot in Pennsylvania to wipe out an entire sect of the state’s population.  US 30 is a frighteningly curvy and hilly blue line (almost unable to drive it in decent weather and road conditions at more than 25-30mph.)  It dips and winds through and around the foothills of the mountain.  If an engineer could condense it into a 90-second span at 125 mph, it would be the best rollercoaster of all times!  Please bear in mind that I have driven the autobahn more than once in cars that max out at over 140 mph at top speed.  So believe me when I tell you just how treacherous this stretch of road is.  US 30 is nearly impossible to drive sober and I could only imagine it after ONE beer, yet alone several.  However, this fear did not stop the brilliant minds in Pennsylvania from putting The Mountain Top Biker Bar perched amongst the elms and oaks at the very highest peak of the mountain on an “L-curve”; to be honest it is really a sharp 40-degree U-turn to the left.  As I drove past, the place was absolutely packed!  It was the only bar for about 20 miles on US 30 and the banner outside read, “Welcome All Bikers!  Sunday Special: 2-20oz Coors Lights and a Dawg $7.00…CATCH ALL THE NASCAR ACTION HERE!”  Obviously, the sunglasses on/off law makers were hard at work trying to figure out a way to decline the PA mullet and leather sporting, Skynard listening, white trash faction while making it look like a DUI related accident.  Unwanted population control at its finest.  Simply a genius plan.  Well done, Pennsylvania.           

The Town

               Gettysburg is home to many moments in American history and exploits the bajeesus out of it (can’t say I blame them, really.)  At the surface level, it truly is a tourist trap of American history.  However, if you look deeper than the freak-show re-enactors milling about in full Yankee uniform riding through town in horse-drawn carriages you will notice a strange culture clash.  Yuppie youths of the east coast dressed in their best “I totally just threw on last season’s $75 DKNY t-shirt, D&G stressed jeans and white baseball hat” uniform descend like a swarm of locusts upon this town from the middle of August until the middle of May, completely changing the atmosphere.  The parking lots of Gettysburg College are filled with hand me down Audis, BMWs and Volvos.  The students of Gettysburg are the kids that grew up Summering in the Hampton’s and spent Christmas break skiing in St. Moritz.  I only had two students out of 80 that were actually from Pennsylvania.  The rest were all NYC, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts and Vermont transplants that found Gettysburg College on their 8^th grade class trip.  However, my students were an amazing collection of individuals.  They only looked the part; thankfully, they chose not to act it.

               As you can surely imagine, Gettysburg has its own odd locals, besides the re-enactors, whom, by the way, will speak to you in American English of the Civil War Era, there are the “townies.”  I used to be somewhat bewildered by the people of Cleveland and their incessant need to buy a car, even if it is a crappy car that is barely street legal from a safety point of view.  Nowhere else on the planet will you find more temporary tags on busted beater cars than in the city of Cleveland.  However, in the parking lot of the Gettysburg Wal-Mart there is a totally obscure car related phenomenon taking place.  At any given moment, one can easily spot not one, not two, but at the very minimum five cars that are 1980’s classics (Camaros, Firebirds etc.) all sporting at least one coat of DIY primer gray spray paint.  I have known several good old country boys over my lifetime and I am completely aware that they are all about fixing and painting things themselves, especially when it is car related, but some things should be left to the professionals of MAACO.  Inside the Wal-Mart, more amusement awaits.  Upon entering, I thought I was at Cedar Point for the day as I came across three different couples wearing matching t-shirts.  The elderly couple wore, “What part of no don’t you understand?”, the middle age couple was wearing the exact same Harley Davidson t-shirt and the youngest couple chose to outfit themselves in arrow t-shirts “Bun in the Oven” with the down arrow and “I’m with stupid” with the side arrow.  While on my trek through Wal-Mart, several employees informed me that it was Hurricane Season and that I needed to stock up on batteries and water.  Yup, all over that one!  I was almost at the verge of a socio-cultural melt down when I spotted the best sign ever: “Las Estampillas Comidas No Son Validos Para Los Productos.”  Translation: Food stamps are not valid on these products.  This label was slapped on the hot dog grill and slushee machine at the Wal-Mart Café and this sign was only posted in Spanish.

The Campus Experience

               Oddly enough, one of my students was actually a professor (the Athletic Director.)  He decided to take my class because he was about to start his Ph.D. and wanted to brush up on his research, reading and writing skills.  Only me!  First day teaching at the collegiate level and I have to teach someone that has been a professor for 15 years?  Sure, Jewels, no pressure!  He ended up being really amusing and totally into what I taught him.  Before class on Wednesday, we were discussing Division III athletics and how the whole event and preparation for a game is completely different from a Division I school.  He invited me to come to the game on Saturday and I accepted. 

As most of you are aware, I am a huge advocate of amateur, minor league and collegiate athletics.  My number one reason being that these athletes are just that.  They are actual athletes that play with heart and for the love of the game.  As opposed to the majority of professional athletes who are a pack of selfish show-boaters that play for the status of being an icon and of course, the millions of dollars in advertising revenue.  Hence, I was extremely excited to go to a Division III gridiron match up.  Although it was a good game and I thoroughly enjoyed myself, I was totally unprepared to revert to high school.  In the world of NCAA football I am used to at best OSU games in the glorious horseshoe shaped Ohio Stadium and at worst, UC’s Nippert Stadium.  There were entirely too many similarities between Saturday afternoon games at SHHS and the one I attended at Gettysburg.  The Gettysburg field was just that, a field (that was also painted for use by the soccer team and men’s lacrosse team) with the “home” side having a grandstand out of cement and the “away” side made out of scaffold.  Grant it, it is a very nice field and is well maintained, but it is still just a field with two sets of bleachers.  The Fraternity boys (as opposed to the senior class) sold hot dogs and water for a dollar.  All of the students came to socialize and hear the marching band, not to watch a game and the majority of the girls chose to wear sundresses, flip-flops and Paris Hilton-esque designer sunglasses.  The only difference occurred in the parking lot.  Parental units, dressed in khaki shorts and plaid button down Polo shirts gingerly sipped martini’s out of plastic glassware while sitting atop the trunk of their $60,000 cars as opposed to my Dad, Mr. Hedgyes, Mr. Brown and their cronies huddled together under the eave of the school to smoke a cigar in the parking lot.  As a side note:  there was also a Fran Kalafatis-type Mom blowing an air horn and cheering wildly for her boy the entire game!

Side Story: The True Battle at Gettysburg

               I had two major battles my first night at Gettysburg.  One of them involved the comfort level, or lack thereof, of the mattress on my bed at Little House (where I was staying.)  After a valiant attempt to sleep on a mattress that was apparently made of sheet rock I decided to try the sofa.  After sleeping on the wrap around leather sofa, which I kept sticking to (think leather car seats in Summer) and attempting to sleep on the pullout couch, I eventually won the battle of the bed.  I decided to inspect the mattress and box spring.  I picked up the mattress only to discover two ½ thick pieces of press ply wood that was wedged in between the box spring and mattress.  Why someone would do this • I have no idea.  Plywood removed and battle won!

               The other battle took a bit more craftiness to win.  Before the battle of the bed, I was lounging outside in my pajamas on my patio having a coffee and doing the Sunday crossword puzzle (like I do) and all seemed fine until I decided to go inside.  I entered the house and found a weird gooey, slimy, sticky, tar-like substance on the cuff of my PJ pants.  Somewhere between the patio table and the door to Little House I must have brushed by something sticky.  So, I opened the door to the patio and turned on the overhead light only to find that I had an army of slugs infest my patio area.  There were so many of them that I couldn’t even go out onto the doorstep without stepping on one.  Lying amongst all of the live slugs was one squished, dying slug (guess that would be the one that was now on my pants.)  There was only solution to this gigantic problem.  I went across the street to 7-11, bought a container of salt and sprinkled away.  The next morning I hosed down all of the molten slug carcasses off the patio.  After slaying what may have been the entire slug community in Gettysburg in one swoop, I didn’t see a single slug for the rest of my stay.

Sometimes when you travel you just know when the Universe is on your side...our B&B owners recommended, instead of the normal bus tour through Gettysburg, we check in at the Forest Service office and ask for a personal tour and they would drive us in our own car. Best advice I've received in a long time.

Since I was on crutches/wheelchair, getting around is really a struggle at best, but when getting on and off of a bus with tons of folks pushing and shoving, it just isn't a good idea. The odds are, I was going to fall. So, we checked in at the main office and they had someone available in a hour. We putzed around the gift shop and looked through the museum. There are so many photos donated by family of the men who faught in the Civil War. It was so heart wrenching to see these faces as so many were just boys.

When it was time our tour guide showed up and we got back in our car and headed out. Our guide's name was Bill Troxell, and if you check out current information for Gettysburg, he happens to be the Mayor of Gettysburg. He is also the direct descendent of the first man who built a home in Gettysburg and owned a carriage shop in town. He was born in that first house, as were all of his predecessors. So, with this said, you know the tour was going to be amazing.

Bill is an incredibly friendly, intelligent and informed individual. Before we hit the battleground, Bill took us through town to show his family home, as well as to point out these "things" embedded in the side of houses all over town...mortar rounds. Yes, they are still there, as well as the bullet holes. Historic society ensures that these reamains of our past are not lost.

Off to the battlefield! As we drove very slowly through miles and miles of road winding through the battlefields, Bill told us stories that few ever will hear. From stories of the war, to golfing with President Isenhower and seeing President and Mrs. Kennedy touring the site in the early 60s in their convertable with no guards around.

Bill grew up playing on the battlegrounds, so as a young boy, he and his friends found things you wouldn't believe! He pulled out a bullet that soldiers having a limb amputated would bite since it was being done on the grounds. Herein came our expression, "bite the bullet."

The historic society has completely restored Gettysburg to an exact replica of how it looked during the 3 day battle, from where fences are located, what trees were there, to what fields are plowed. It was like stepping back in time.

We stopped at the first major battleground were over 3,000 men died within a 3 minute time span. When I stepped out of the car, I was overwhelmed by grief that washed over me like a wave. You could feel the grief, anger and fear as you stood there. Many tears were shed during our tour and this was just the first of many.

My favorite monument had to be the _____________ regiment who had their dog, Sally, at the base of it. The story goes that the troops were in a horrendous battle and many fell. Sally never left her men, though the troops had retreated. She stayed with the dead and dying, not allowing Confederate soldiers to loot the bodies or touch anyone. She was there for 5 days, guarding her men and starving to death. When the regiment returned, Sally still stood strong, though it had been 5 days with no food or water. The troops saved Sally, who eventually was killed in battle 6 months later. Today, tourists leave money at Sally's feet and the Forest Service picks it up every night and donates the funds to the local ASPCA. Despite a very steep hill to the monument, I got up it on my crutches to pay my respects.

When we first started the trip into Gettysburg I tried to get pictures of all of the monuments. I knew after 5 minutes it wasn't going to be possible. The monuments seem to be everywhere.

For anyone who has ever had any interest in history, American or otherwise, I strongly recommend visiting this battleground and hearing the amazing history.

After a late start from Philly, we were on the road to Hanover for our B&B. We did manage to stop at Valley Forge for a very quick visit.

The fort area is well preserved and beautiful beyond belief. It is hard to imagine what the troops went through during the war when you see the little stone shacks where they tried to survive. You still see the burn marks where they kept fires burning. It was a very brief trip. I hope my next stay in PA will allow me more time in this area.

We arrived at our B&B in Hanover after a very long day on the road. The B&B is more what I expected from a B&B. An historic home that welcomed us as guests and treated us wonderfully! We stayed at The Beechmont Inn in downtown Hanover and it was amazing! We had a nice big room with two queen size beds and it was heaven! Since Kj had never stayed in a real B&B before I was so happy she got to experience this home.

We got to bed early, tired and road worn and ready to rest up for Gettysburg.

Ran into an old friend here--he happened to by carrying a mandolin and joined me for a couple of songs right on the central square...

There are two reasons that people visit Gettysburg, PA.  1)  For it's rich civil war history and 2) Boyds Bears.  My brother and his girlfriend of the time were expecting their first child so we chose the latter option as our reason to visit Gettysburg.  On our previous trip we got to see the historical side of the town, this time we were here for the "fun" side.  Our visit here was a surprise to me.  Being the nerd that I am, I played along with the employees of Boyds Bears.  Pulling into the driveway of the store the posted speedlimit is "12 2/3 MPH or 6 3/4 MPH If It's...Raining, Snowing, Sleeting, Freezing, Overcast, Windy, Foggy, or... Year Of The Seven-Year Locusts!"  I wonder if anyone has ever been pulled over for not obeying the speed limit?  The store itself is an enormous barn.  It operates much like Cabbage Patch's Babyland Nursery or Build-A-Bear.  You are given a punch in/out card and at each station you have to punch your card as it was a timecard.  You are also given a construction hat and an unstuffed bear.  You are responsible for choosing what traits you would like for your bear to have.  There are different colors of stuffing that you stuff into the bear, each color represents a different trait such as courage, honesty, etc.  Later on you get to sort through loads and loads of clothing and accessories to customize your bear even more.  It's a great place to visit for kids! 

Also in the barn you will find thousands and thousands of Boyds Bears on display.  There's  baby nursery, a school, and any possible setting you can imagine.  It's very cute!  If you're planning on taking your kids to Gettysburg to show them the historical aspects of the town, I suggest breaking up the trip with a visit to Boyds Bears.  The kids will love it!

Our trip was coming to an end.  The last place to be visited was the Gettysburg Battlefield and Cemetery.  If anyone in another part of the world is reading this and you don't understand the significance of this sacred spot, read a history book about The War Between the States.  AKA:  The Civil War. 

The battle at Gettysburg was the turning point in the war and many, many lives were lost on both sides.  It was a bloody battle and proved to be the beginning of the end for the Confederate Army.  Underfunded and undermanned, our boys in gray were no match for the Union troops.

The irony of it all is that the Confederates were only stopping in Gettysburg to try and buy shoes.  They weren't looking for a fight.  Hungry, weary and discouraged, probably most every one of them just wanted to go home.

Enjoy these few last photos.  After this stop, I packed up my camera.  It was time to head home and there wouldn't be any photo opportunities between here and home.

Watch for more travel blogs.  Jerry and I have taken many, many trips on our beloved Goldwing and this site gives me the most wonderful opportunity to share with you.

Left the Elks in Frederick, MD. early and drove up to Gettysburg where I stayed at the Artillery Ridge Campground. it was located just a mile or two down the road from the National Park Visitors Center. a large park with many amenities but a bit on the pricy side.

The next two days were spent exploring the National Park. Attended an electric map presentation that walked you through the 3 days of the battle and explained what and when it all took place. Very good and it gave me an overview of the events that took place there. From there, I took a guided tour of the cemetery which was good and presented by a Park Ranger. Purchased an audio battlefield tour guide and spent most of the day driving the battlefield stopping at all of the places mentioned on the tape.

Took a break from Gettysburg and drove up to Hershey, PA to visit the factory and displays there. The facility is huge with one of the largest parking lots I have seen. They give you the first 2 hours free and then charge you a bunch with the third hour starting at $8.00. In the visitors center, they offer a tram ride that takes you through a simulated factory explaining how chocolate and candy bars are made. Interesting but focused more toward children. There was also a 3D theater which I passed on and the balance of the center was a huge store selling Hershey products in all shapes and assortments. Clothes, mugs and more than you could imagine. next to the visitors center is a huge amusment park which was quite expensive to enter. I passed on that also. Also there was a museum which as you would expect was focused on old man Hershey and all he did. Another admission site.

Back at the Artillery Ridge Campground, I had been put on a waiting list as I wanted to extend my stay over the 4th of July. They had scheduled loads of activities as it was the anniversary weekend of the battle. A large recreatment was cancelled at the last minute because of the fact we had some heavy rain and the field they were planning to use was way too muddy. Boo Hoo! Got lucky and I was able to extend my stay but had to move to another site. That put me right next to the horse corral and in the midst of many of the recreatment folks. I had generals and soldiers all around me. They really take their rolls seriously. Took another Ranger presentation covering the day 2 battle on Cemetery Ridge. He covered hour by hour all that happened that day and we walked the sites and saw what they faced.

President Eisenhower's retirement home is on the battlefield and I took a tour of it on July 3. One step back from Camp David and two back from the White House. In the afternoon, Union and Confederate soldiers had a great ceremony at the "Angle" where Picketts charge ended the battle. The Confederates walked across the fields and when they got to the angle, they requested permission to cross the wall. There were several hundred soldiers of both sides along with some womenfolk all in their costumes of the times. General Mead gave a speach followed by one by a Park Ranger. The message was about unification of the country.

Gettysburg was a great experience and I consider myself lucky to have been there on the anniversary weekend of the battle.  

Summary:

Elk Lodges: 43, Escapee RV Parks: 25, Public RV Parks: 32, National Parks: 49, major Ships: 10, Forts: 20

Expenses: 36 months on the road with an average of $1958 per month.

6/1/06

New Market, VA to Gettysburg, PA 

Sometimes it is nice to revisit an area.  Dave and I are so happy we did that today.  First thing this morning, we took a tour through the Luray Caverns.  My memories did not do it justus.  We were just awestruck.  The Mammoth Caves in KY are brute big; Luray is fairyland delicate and big.  I snapped lots of shots; find I get better pictures if I don’t use the flash.  Just me??  We also visited the car museum, thinking we’ve seen many museums already we’ll just make a quick pass thru.  We ended up taking our time, as there were many cars we had not seen and they were well written up.  Very interesting.  On our way north we came much closer to DC than I had planned, even so, we bypassed Wash, DC and headed to Gettysburg for the night.  Campgrounds are resorts here…just means more $$.  :-}

Laundry night again.  No gas today.

  Once we arrived we went to the Visitor's Center (a good place to begin the visit, it turns out). We rented an audiotour which gives you directions on where to drive and history about each different part of the battlefield. I highly recommend it. At each stopping point in the tour you can stop the car and get out to take pictures and walk around. Be prepared though - the tour will wear you out. Even with a break in the middle for lunch, we skimmed over the end because the all-too-familiar 'museum fatigue' was setting in, despite the fact that we were sitting down much of the time. Gettysburg is beautiful in the autumn and such beauty makes the battlefield even more sombre.
  After we ended the audio tour we bought tickets for the "Cyclorama" which, it turns out, was the theatre of the early 20th century. It's a large circular mural which depicts, in this case, Gettysburg during the battle. Each part lights up progressively, giving you a view of a different portion of the battle.

Gettysburg (eastern Pennsylvania) is a little over 70 miles from Washington, DC and about 35 miles from Harrisburg, PA.   Area attractions include the Gettysburg National Military Park,  Eisenhower National Historic Site, golf courses and horseback riding, antique shopping and galleries, and Boyd's Bear Country. 

There are many Bed and Breakfasts to choose from, as well as the Eisenhower Inn and Convention Center.  Some of the hotels and motels, like Holiday Inn Battlefield and Quality Inn - Gettysburg, are within walking distance of the park.  Quality Inn - Larson's is located on historic Seminary Ridge, with General Lee's Headquarters on premises and the National Park adjacent.

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