November 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12

On this Saturday, I had to wake up early to go to the Canadian Embassy as I registered to pass the federal entry exams for some positions applied. So that was great as I then had the chance to do them here, which is otherwise sometimes pretty difficult to get the invitation. We also were receiving a guest, which luckily did arrive just on time before we were departing. So Colin was making the exams too so we left together, although I would have been pretty keen on leaving all on my own. We caught a taxi like on the wrong road, which I did not realise and when he wanted to turn I thought he had not understood, Colin said nothing and it is only at the end of the road that I realised we were going the wrong direction. So of course when we arrived at Pushkin near where the embassy was, the taxi driver wanted some more money, which I hadn’t anyway. And Colin was like, well that is not my problem ask him behind and walked out of the taxi and away immediately. That was such a stupid fuckhead reaction; sometimes he can be so dumb. So yeah that was my mistake, which I was mad at… especially since I was like why the fuck didn’t we catch the taxi right on the road we needed to be on. Anyway, I just need to get breaks… so the first exam lasted 1h30, it was hard and I missed time. I am so bad at arithmetic’s and numbers related questions. I had to guess answers by the end of it. Then I got my second exam, which is situational judgment. It was not too bad, but I will know how it went with the result since the righteous of your answer pretty much depends on what the government wants to hear.

I finished earlier and went for dinner on my own before being joined by the rest of the group. I was the only one writing the exam in French so I was alone in the room I was with the exam supervisor. Then back in the afternoon for my last exams, which was pretty easier for me as was about the quality of language and such.

I finished earlier again and went home directly. I was just feeling so tired that I ended up falling asleep on the couch while watching boring movies on TV until our guest came back. One nice thing was to finally have the chance to walk more freely on the Canadian Embassy compound, they had tortoise in the back of the house. I had never really seen any nor touch any. So that was great… seeing those big rock-alike eating grass and… shitting big thingy.

On Sunday, the rain was back so it was a bit boring and I was tired again. So I ended up just coming at the office in the evening. Which was great as I spent a short time talking with Megan.

The following week was all rainy too and so cold that I didn’t want to get out of bed in the morning. On Monday, I was also quite exhausted and unmotivated so I stayed home and happened to sleep late as well. I felt pretty down and nothing out came off this day. I still tried to do some things from home but well.  I did try to come in the evening anyway, but Megan was online only pretty late and I also ended up being online till extremely late to the point that I got locked inside the building. I had to rush out quick when I heard the door opening. So as I made it late I worked from home during Tuesday, but I needed to get in touch with Megan today. I went to the office already late in the evening and I was really pissed to see that Colin was there and not giving a fuck obviously about the fact that I entered the office and that most obviously I was there for one reason, use the Internet. Still no single fling, just like an attitude and look of ‘yeah right, in your dream pal’ and that made me look really red. At first I started doing some of my work with my files but nearly more than an hour later (nearing 2) I asked him and told, ‘you know that I am here to eventually manage to catch my email’ and he answered me some sort of ‘like I care’ attitude and it turned into a big argument and I snapped, especially at the fact of how he answered me and refused to listen and also that it is not like I will have the best phrasing in English. But he has the chance to feel with a superior act. I just grabbed the stuff and chuck them on the floor and of course he felt like he was still the best and ‘oohhh I would have not last long in other circumstance’. Big dumb prat, what makes you believe that because you are so sure of yourself and bigger that you obviously are stronger, a pencil in the throat would not have change anything to stupid muscle. I was fuming for some time and of course having snapped I was the stupid one now and felt already like shit because of how I reacted (not that I like him some more) but felt like shit that on not being listened nor respected whatsoever, I had lowered myself to that. I already feel like crap on being here, seeing my opportunities diminished and my motivation the lowest. I had to tell Megan what happened last night when I got locked so that she would know why I wasn’t responding during the night and she is also the only thing that kept me going during my whole time here. I ended up apologising and everything cooled down, but I definitely don’t want to be in such situation and avoid contact at most. Late at night, when he finally left and I finally ended up staying around to still use it, I connected but Megan wasn’t online so I just wrote her an email and headed home as well. Later during that night, my phone rang as she called me. I was happy to hear her voice and already felt so down that she was able to make me forget all my worries and hold me together. That’s grateful blessing.

On Wednesday, I ended up going to the UN. Which offered again some shit Internet and I wasn’t there late of course and the conversation was cut short as I ended up having some arguments with Megan, which was a bit pissing me off. My daily mood here was not the most pleasant and that somehow did not help. We had arguments over stupid things but also had lately some conversation over topic to avoid discussing which is relationship based thing. That maybe made me slightly annoyed too or quite made me wondering.

But I finally cut short the conversation as I was leaving the UN and meeting with Kenelm (strawberryfields3) from HC who was in town and went to meet him right away. We spent some time discussing on Bole during the evening and have a drink before I eventually headed home to cook something and relax.

On Thursday, I stayed home as well most of the day and felt sleepy with no energy. That annoyed me again and I was supposed to have a meeting later by the end of the day but that was dodgy arranged and I had no idea if it would exist. I still went, at Limetree where it was to be, and had a meal anyway. Of course the person never showed up and probably either never understood the message or didn’t receive it on time. I spent part of the night out before heading home. On Friday, the same applied and a big nothing during the day, in the evening, and quite late, I tried to go to the office to use the Internet (it had been long for my standards) but it was busy! Raaaaaaaa Laura was there and still was until after 9pm as I gone to do grocery in the meantime. Going back home, I really felt that I needed to be online and went back late at night and finally used it for a few hours, talking with Megan shortly.

Another weekend is now passing, which is bringing full of excitement, as I am about to turn my calendar page (Ethiopian calendar) to the last one until Megan arrives. I went to the office on Saturday evening and we talked the whole night but also argued on various thing and topic and often avoided questions. That is not always nice. It wasn’t at all that bad night otherwise I would have not stay long but there was a moment where despite being at the office and online we didn’t talk at all and said well talk to you later. Well I am coming to the bloody Internet just to feel my connection with her; I often just end up staring at the chat in between writing, as there is nothing else to do.  So that was not so much of a good sight. She doesn’t like to talk about her past, and I am someone that sneaks to get to know everything not only about the facts and ‘pedigree’ but also to understand the impression and feelings. In a way, it is curiosity of either trying to know whom I am falling for as to possibly not ever have surprise. In another way it is to know how she is to better understand the feelings, reactions and how to deal with. There might be a tad of frustration and anger, as since I know that I love her, I wish that her life had been easy, pleasant and protected from the stupid acts of other despising human being… it is never happening but I feel as a duty to share that pain in feelings and maybe I feel ready to defend in a protective matter in the future. Anyway it is certainly creepy and doesn’t make sense. As for other side, I just want to know some sort of pedigree… out of jealousy? Maybe? Out of anything else? Possible! I get to know then the like/dislike, feelings, reasons to react in some ways and what to be willing to do. Many topics comes as such, friendship is one; activities or sex others.

But anyway, things went on a downhill side as matter to talk further. On Sunday I cleaned up the whole house at a perfect level and did some repair in the bathroom, which was due (and since no one else would move into making something up, I have to be proactive).

Then I came to the office but the Internet wasn’t working. So after some time I just started working on my files and managed in the whole 8h I spent here to complete most of them. So my interview questionnaire for the slum dwellers are ready as well as is my main methodology paper. I tried several time during that evening to open the Internet but the bloody thing never worked. That seriously pissed me off!

On Monday, I just picked my things and went to the UN. I chatted a bit with Megan with whom we argued over heating system and so on. It is dumb, childish and so but it happened and my personality doesn’t make it extremely tolerating. So the conversation cut short and I went home. But Colin was there with his new girlfriend (or such) so it was pretty bweuuuh. So I went into bed and watched a DVD on my computer.

On Tuesday, it was to be a great day as I had a meeting over my budget, so I was at the office in the morning but the meeting was pushed forward until the evening. I worked on my files in the meantime got the Internet a bit in the afternoon for a quick chat until Anteneh came to visit so I talked with him for a while. Then in the evening after having waited long I had my meeting with Teferra and got my budget. Which is tiny according to Canadian Standards, 600$ to pursue my study pay my tiny expenses while I am on the field and hire some support staff for the interviews.

While I was having my meeting, I also started having some sort of relationship question discussion with Megan online and it continued until late in the night. But I have to admit that it was not a good one. It made me a bit doubtful about the motivation of it. Made me think and believe that we possibly aim just at some sort of companionship relation. I am fine with it, I guess, and I guess it is what life is finally. Because I have more and more the impression that love doesn’t exist and so on… which is how my mood and mind quite crashed in relation with that conversation. Not knowing what her feelings are (or understanding a bit of different ones from that last conversation) made us come into a completely new landscape it seems.

Personally I will adapt to however a relationship is aiming in style. But it might not be what will make it last. If we head toward a companionship relationship, lust is not part of it and lust is the sex-drive, which comes through mutual discussion about it and knowing the other. Right now I am neither feeling any drive at all nor any excitement so which means that if the whole thing survived, well then I just scratch that topic off my life. I also feel she isn’t fully being with me for the right reasons or I don’t know what. We haven’t been together for a long time and I could say we barely know each other. Of course several discussions were a crash course that would have been annoying but it made giant footsteps at easing ‘ourselves’ as a continuous ‘one’. Personally I feel it is that, that gives the chance to sustain as a long-distance relationship, right now I wonder how hard this month will be and if things will turn out different or more odd when we are seeing each other? It might be that this very last month before the date we looked forward in full excitement during the past 5 months ends up being the deal breaker (one reason being that all our conversation will turn to be plain… since I said it before… if I take a path it is all or nothing; black or white… there is no existing shades).

Megan if you ever happen reading this, well I am sorry then. I think, most likely I will start closing up myself to avoid any of those sharing discussion, which I don’t like to reveal myself by lowering down my guard.

One big mistake that was done just before leaving each other last was to say bye on a ‘farewell’ way, like ‘’ohh we should not talk for a while’’ so just as a matter to get busy with our life’s activities.  Even sent as a bit testing, when the answer is positive… or like trying to be witty. Well black&white / black&white! So it sounds similar to a break to me.

On Wednesday the 12^th, I am at the office and I wrote the previous days of my blog. I will start to get busy with work and so on so that I can concentrate on something and not be hurt at all. I wonder about myself and about my life. One of the thing that hold me together while being here is my relationship; If I do succeed to become a work oriented person, I think it will change me a lot.

I finished all my paper work, so I still have things to do but it is a great thing to know that my basic work I have been trying to set in the past weeks is in a nearly finalise set-up. So in the afternoon, I needed to move out and do something, I remembered that I should be calling Denise (whom is HC Canadian member travelling here and whom stayed at Volker in Frankfurt just a few days ago and he wrote me she was heading down here.) So I contacted her and went up to the Hilton to meet up with her, we went for a drink and talked about various things. It was a really cool encounter. She is about the same age as a Volker and like him; she is a fully energetic, young at heart madam. I had fun and it put all my worries and sadness/sorrow away. The fact that we talked about life and future made me think about Megan (and I did talk about her) and it made me talk about all the positive side and all the love I have for her. That encounter was a bit of a magic relief for me. Despite that the worries I talked previously are still wandering around, I don’t have a deep sorrow and frustration about it. I feel even more that this month has to go through so that we head together for a future.

Ohhh finally that weekend, the second annoying rainfall went away. After 2 weeks of random hard rain and cold weather. This probably destroyed or damaged a lot of the crops in the area, which won’t be good for the food insecurity and the food price. My wish will remain that any impact happens after I am gone!

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November 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20

The 13th was a pretty normal working day, just finalising some more of the stuff for the project. And on Friday, Anteneh came over to finalise some more elements and we finally ended up going on the field later in the afternoon with Teferra's car to meet with the Kebele's administration. We finally did tour all the Kebele but didn't manage to be on time to meet with the people in Arada. But I was amazed how my random pick of local administration in Addis Ababa did end up with such hugely different area with different issues.

That was a nice challenge to notice.

About the project:

I am here as a Urban Developper Specialist (Town Planner specialised) employed through a Canadian Government Sponsored Internship (only receiving living allowance) with the Canadian Urban Institute Office in Addis Ababa. Basically my project is titled as an Eco-City project, which is usually bringing sustainable development techniques and planning management practices for the city and making sure that the city is more sustainable (socially, housing, economically, environmentally, development, transport... etc... all issues of the development of a city). Eco-City comes from Rio 1992 UN Sustainable Summit (everyone knows... the famous Brundtland Agenda 21) and usually means for the Western Country to develop our city and planning management techniques in a more green and environmentally-friendly way ie. taking care of Landscape, Environmental Assessment, Mobility, etc...).

Although on a developping country, the issues are a bit more urgent. So the Eco-City, here in Addis, takes more the shape of a Slum Upgrading program (a slum being just a shanty area where people houses are made of any temporary materials found here and there). So it matters more to improve sanitation, providing water, toilet, shower, waste management.... and of course work!!

So this is where my project is aiming at. Addis Ababa consisting of about 80% of Slum dwellings, that is a gigantic task. Although my personal phylosophy is always do one thing but do it good instead of trying to do everything.

And for that reason, I am working at developping one Project-Pilot on a local neighbourhood in Addis Ababa and also to create the full methodology for the project at later stage.

Such project should last several years, but since I am just here for a few months I do with what I have.

So what my intentions are, is to completely improve one Kebele (which is a local neighbourhood in Addis Ababa) on every aspects and make it good instead of just improving, say water, or waste management and let all other issue down.

What I am exactly working on concretely.

After having spend months doing nothing as I didn't know what there was to do. I finally started with analysing all the possible aspects to take into consideration in a complete study of a neighbourhood. And to do so, I integrated all basic life amenities and also all modern planning issues (which affects the Western Countries) so that they would be taken into account.

To follow some more methodological and scientific development on where the project would be localised. I first used my general list of aspects to draw some urban indicators that would give us an idea of the local conditions in various neighbourhood. That in terms of opportunity for the project to be successful and in terms of urgent needs too.

So I targeted 5 Kebeles In Addis Ababa to which I will apply the methodology (localised Central) and also designed the way to collect the data. Which will be done by interviews of locals, of administration and also field observation (so I designed all elements to do that).

The result will enable us to 'score' the various Kebele and the most urgent one will be the subject to the project pilot.

Once that has been defined (following the methodology), well I will be giving my recommendation and specialist advice on how the project should continue, and maybe even have some time to work on the final methodology for the whole project.

I will also give my recommendation for Anteneh to take the project over after my departure.

That is about my work here, so I am doing a tiny bit of lobbying and Human Resources (As I will be hiring interviewers for on the field, which I need to train), preparing the methodology and all the work and also be on the field for the observation.

So it is quite nice afterall. Though it was too long wait to just arrived there (and also a complete lack of support from any other professional).

The week end was quiet, Colin left to Harer so I had the house for myself and that was great. The following Monday, I met again with Anteneh to meet up with the last Kebeles in Arada, which took most of the day and spent the evening online. Although Internet was shit.

On Tuesday, I did some more of my office work from home but when I went to the office, Internet was entirely broken and not working and on Wednesday it was the same.
The whole country was without Internet, this is what happens when it is government controlled and inefficient. It drove me mad.

I also started feeling a bit sick as it seems I have been catching the flu from my colleague. Thats bad.

So Thursday I was in bed all day and Friday too... although I came to finish some more work that needed to be done.

November 20th and 21st, despite having a bad  cold mark a great last 20 days before Megan comes here! I am looking forward to it!

About Addis,

The weather, is amazingly odd... it is sooooooooooo cold lately that it explains why I got a cold and everyone around me has. I am freezing overnight, althought the days are now sunny (since the rainy season and it seconds tiny rain season are gone) and warm during the day, which is nice.

The house is remaining cold all the time, the heat doesn't get inside as it is concrete built. So that is annoying.

About street life, the street dogs are really lovely, sometimes dumb or sad at how they look but they never bother you nor care about humans, they lie on the pavement as if you don't exist and get only active at night. I have never see any dogs here becoming a danger or barking at a human. They seem to pretty fear them and give them respect and all the place during the day while the night is their kingdom. Also, most people do give them bones on the pavement so they get fed by everyone.

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November 23-24-25-26-27-28-29-30

The last week of November, it went pretty quick and one of the reason was that I had guests over for most of the week. On Saturday, I spent a part of the day at the office finalising some work and watched my email as Ronald (whom I had met some weeks before while he was arriving in Addis) wrote me that he would be back before his departure to stay over from tomorrow.

So I replied and he did show up the next day, after his long trip to the south and I met with him at the office building. I did some more stuff online while I could before we went home and walked around Kebele 4 (my neighbourhood) to show him the surrounding and the slums. I could explain the different type of development and living conditions in Ethiopia through that tour. We ended up having pizza at Oracle and finally watching movies at home later on.

On Monday, I finally spent only one hour at the office and we both headed to Entoto to hike a bit in the mountain. It was fine, and finally after some hours of fresh air in the high altitude I noticed that my cough had disappeared! That is great, so hiking in high altitude does help for that? Well it seemed to have.

We stopped by Piassa on the way back to have a cake and drink before we struggled to get a bloody bus to Bole. I didn't know where they were from Piassa but they were not in an obvious place and as it was getting dark it was getting even more confusing. Especially when you have about hundreds of them going in every direction and the conductor yelling the places. You are wondering where to catch it.

We were both knackered and so cooking and sleeping was a pretty easy thing to do.

I went to work on Tuesday and spent the evening with him before he left to catch his flight with KLM (so late evening). I also received another call from Maarten (who stayed at the beginning of the month, asked if he could come over before his departure.).

So on Wednesday while I was at work, I got a call that he arrived, I went home early to have meal and spent again the evening at the office for using the Internet.

On Thursday, we met late in the afternoon and went to Cinema after having cooked some nice beans and Peanut Saté at home. We watched Body of Lies, which was a nice entertainment and it had been a long time I had not been at Edna Mall.

Friday I got a brawl with Colin since he is using the stuff I buy that are in my desk. I knew it since I noticed someone was using them but it was really pissing me off that it became like granted to do so. I had been doing the walk exploratory on Kebele 4 and was so mad at how I am being answered and belittled by his attitude that I left the office and did stay. I met with Maarten and we finally went out. I needed to be out and so, we went to a terrass nearby and had some drinks before meeting with Robel and go for a quick pizza at Oracle (they serve really good pizza on Ethio-China Road) and further to the German House for some more beers. We made it until after midnight before walking home, then simply brought Maarten to a taxi (as his turkish airlines flight was at 4am).

So now I was on my last week end of November. It will be December and Megan is coming quick. I finished all my related work over the week end and also had a walk with Robel in Kirkos's neighbourhood on Sunday.

Addis Living Conditions:

The beggars: Of course you will see plenty of them, some being polite... many being rudely direct or rudely expecting it is a need for you to give them because you are white. The only remaining trick is to ignore them. There is no way you can't give to all, and often giving to one would mean that they all surround you. And naturally many of them does not need any money or food (as they would sell it) so that is a careful thoughts.

Children especially are naturally coming to beg you, although school is free. They are still prefer to be street children and earn money on the street which will be a really bad thing for their future.

Some grown-up also begs, for the only reason that you are white and they might get some bucks. They don't need it as they can usually work and are fit to work. Basically they are just being a pleg and sadly some people do give them, so it encourage them.

The only real beggars would be an elder or a disable, the only ones that are really in needs as it is being pretty difficult for them to get incomes elsewhere.

Luckily, the beggars and anyone on the street are usually friendly and never will be treatening. They can of course be a pain in the ass, but I definitely would recommend to not give or give only to those in needs. Not because it make you feel better or make you get rid of them. Learning a few words and being persistant will quickly make them away (or usually just keep on walking straight, as your pace should definitely be quicker than an Ethiopian). Giving them will only encourage them that white people are only here to give them, and discourage them on earning their life anyhow else.

Night Walk anyone?

It is Africa, and walking at night in a strange city can be somehow disturbing. Although, the city is pretty safe and the blackout problems are rarely generalised to the whole city. I personally never had any problems walking back home from wherever I was (if the distance was no longer than 40 minutes walk) and this usually end up surprising more the local than actually making them annoying you whatsoever.

Of course, basic safety as it would apply anywhere else remains. But if you know where you are going, know where you are and the road you will walk at a sure pace and it is pretty much more unlikely that you will be noticed as a potential target. You should alos look ahead and can then notice if there is people somewhere on the street, change side if you don't want to bump and be too much closer to them, then you are definitely more safe. The police is always around and the thing no one knows about Addis, is that there is always 'Eyes' watching you. Those eyes are all the guards keeping various buildings or other elements usually hidden in a dark corner. If you yell, you definitely get their attention quick!

Also, besides the taxi driver that will not believe that a white person can walk... the streets are calm and it is usually relaxing to do so.

I wouldn't suggest it so much around Merkato though.

Taxis and Minibus:

The minibus does not run any long than about 10pm (at max) so after that, you have to rely on the taxi (white and blue car; while the taxis are the white & blue toyota minivan). Night tariff will apply but of course also the 'white inflation'.

The minibus are the nice and cheapest way to travel around Addis although you need to know where you are going and where the bus is going. The conductor yells the destination, but this is not so useful when you don't know the city.

The conductor is rarely overcharging foreigners, but if this happens, simply ask someone on the bus what the right price is and you should manage to get your money. At worst, the police will quickly resolve that since the price are fixed and they can't overcharge. Anyhow, a short distance ride within the city will never cost more than 2 Birr ever. Of course sometimes the minibus continues on long distance and the price is broken into sector (so you only pay for your sector) and might have to pay more than once during the ride.

For taxis, the price is relying on your haggling talent.

Destination clues if you happen to be around Bole and need to go to: (by minibus)

The American Embassy: Listen for ''Arat Kilo''; then from there further to ''Siddist Kilo - Shero Meda''

The Hilton or Sheraton: ''Arat Kilo''

The Canadian Embassy: Listen for ''Mexico''; then from there ask for ''Pushkin''

Piassa / Merkato... have their own destination

In doubt, wherever you are... try to go to ''Stadium'' which is pretty much the transport hub for the city.

Enjoy Addis, carry a tiny flashlight at night if needed, and a raincoat during the rainseason!

Aankomst in Addis Ababa.

October 1-2-3-4-5

A new month, it is now my birthday month that starts and my last days at 28. I am slowly approaching 30, which I am not fully happy with.

It is also another month gone and less before Megan comes in December. This is something I am eagerly looking forward.

The luck so far is that the rainy season finally ended officially. We have had hard sun for the past week at least and no rain. So the mud on the ground starts to dry and that makes it very pleasant. One bad thing happened at the end of this week, a guy just walked in the office while I was the only one in at lunchtime and started to just make non-sense gibberish talk about meeting our manager. He sat down while I was continuing my work and things went on. When Colin came back, it happened that this guy stole his phone on his desk. I never noticed anything and it was a shit time as Colin and me were not in good term. So that weekend, Colin was going back to Merkato to buy a new phone. We were also receiving our first guests (from CouchSurfing) from England. They arrived by midday and we all went to Merkato together so that they had the chance to experience it. They stayed with us for 2-3 nights before going forward to travel up north.

October 6-7-8-9-10

Our guests finally left to stay at a hotel on their last night before they would catch a bus to Bahir Dar. They left their overweight of bags with us in the meantime. The days at work went by and I was more concerned with the coming election than anything else, so I followed a bit off it and even managed to notice lately that the chief Debate (French version) was broadcasted on TV5. So I watched it late at night. On the 8^th in the morning, we got our second guest coming, Paco from France. She was to stay with us awaiting her Canadian boyfriend to come over joining her overland from Yemen.

She managed to come quite near enough the house and we went to pick her on Ethio-China and brought her home before we headed to work. The following days were more about cooking, relaxing and walking around or being busy with work while she did visit around on her own.

October 11-12-13-14-15-16

So It was Thanksgiving and I received a text to go for dinner but I finally didn’t take part of it. I didn’t feel like it and especially didn’t feel like being around with the people I see too often. That was organised for Monday evening, although I was still a bit bitter from having spent tons of money the previous Sunday, despite it at last made me move out of the house.

We, all three, went to find the Wusha Mikael Church, which according to the Lonely Planet is a church similar to those in Lalibela, a Rock-Hewn Church which didn’t really tell me a lot.

So we walked all the way toward the mountain side and Magenagna and found the bottom church and then of course we got people coming over all wanting money to bring us there, but once at the church, the guards were charging us to bringing us up the mountain to that church. The first price was a lot and we haggled it down. The frustration especially relies on the fact that we didn’t have to pay, we didn’t need an escort to go up on public trail and I am pretty sure it was not dangerous at all.

So anyway, the damage was done we hiked up and got some fresh air at least… being out of the dust and smog of Addis and once we reached the top I even saw some monkeys on the trees. That was great.

So of course, reaching the church you needed to pay to access to the site. The funniest thing was that the numbers are the same for us to read but the amharic version was showing 500% cheaper than the English version. I didn’t want to pay again to get in but finally Colin did pay and I ended up just paying more back at the bottom for the guards (despite that only one was walking up with us, all 3 guards were receiving a stipend… in the most Mafiosi way there is).

So I saw what a Rock-Hewn church is, basically a church carved right off the rock. That one was pretty destroyed, which seemed to have been during WWII.

The guard that walked us up was living nearby and brought us to his home for a coffee ceremony and all such. So we could relax and see a typical mud walled house from the inside. A two rooms house with some fireplace in the outside for extra cooking space. That is definitely a poverty dwelling. But it was located out in the wild surrounded by fields and greenness, so I suppose that can compensate.

During the week, I managed to get a meeting with Teferra and received some feedback on what I had been doing so far. So basically I got some more indication and was able to then continue as I managed to get new ideas and see it from a different angle. I also received some pretty general time schedule, which showed me that, my project on the verge of kicking in… at last after 3 months of tergiversation.

So I was busy with work then.

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October 17-18-19

By this week end I had enough, I was tired and I looked at the flat it was really really looking like a pig house. I felt I was the only cleaning up behind and slowed down on it… the thing being that Colin then didn’t take any part on this task unless it was a just in a while sweeping the floor. So the kitchen ended up witnessing the return of a cockroach, which is not a good sign.

I was really mad at that, the kitchen holds stayed dirty in the corner, or never stacked back on the shelf and made the whole counter with no space. Colin kept still on filling up the sink with dirty dishes which meant you could not use the water pipe anymore unless you removed yesterday’s dirty stuff from it. And even if I would do dishes and put it to dry, I seemed to always be the only one to stack it (same for the garbage bin, it seemed to me that the concept of putting a full bin outside to be collected was not his – or to bring it back in the kitchen with a new bag in it when it was standing outside still and had been collected. I really can not understand that way of thinking) I even once had to pick the rubbish that was either thrown directly on the bin, because someone had been lazy to not put a new bag in it or on the floor because it was either overflowing or had missed it.

I just sometimes wonder if people from Toronto are all that dirty.

On Saturday, the home family got a kitten… but who brings a kitten at bloody 6am on a Saturday and the bloody kitten was a non-stop miauwling thing. My bedroom is located behind the house and right across the backhouse alleyway is the home family house (the service house). My walls and windows are not the best to keep the noise, so I end up hearing everything, the cooking and the talk. So at 6am I got fully awoken by the noise of the cat which did not stop, not a single second from 6 till way after 10. Then when it finally stopped I felt asleep again and didn’t wake up before late afternoon. Just because of that cat I lost my entire Saturday because I lacked sleep.

On Sunday, it was the same thing again, so I was up early. Colin and Paco left early (Colin probably going to church, as it was Sunday (scary for me to imagine, which youngsters goes to church in the 2000s… It makes me quite fearful because religious people have horrible values). So I was left alone on a Sunday with a dirty flat, enough is enough I cleaned it all, doing the whole monthly meant wash-up of the kitchen and bathroom. I finished by noon and also did a cleaning list, which I put on the wall, and put each other’s name on the calendar to force us (him) to do a decent quality and reliable cleaning. I still had half a day to do something and felt that now it was maybe time to go out and move around to avoid staying in the house and change my mind and mood.

I woke Robel up and he prepared himself so that by early afternoon, we walked down the street to confusion square and a minibus passed shouting a ride to Debre Zeyt for 7 Birr (we both didn’t know where we were heading to and 7Birr was well enough in our short tiny budget since I had only 30Birr on me).

So for the first time I went outside Addis Ababa, at last!! My first steps in Oromiya, the sun was shining and it was relaxing to be in a small town. Some of the nice elements there are the lakes and we went to sit by one of them. The landscape was really different and great; the lakes were definitely showing trace of having been created through volcanic settings. We walked there and I had the chance to see pelicans and many other birds. On our way back we took the normal bus that was an ok but not greatest experience. I learned now that a bus rides for several hours would be awful since you are packed one over another. When I was back it was tv time with Colin and Paco, ate at home (cooking with Paco) and after a while I pointed out the cleaning list. I could easily say that it was not well received by Colin and we had some shouting about it. (Comments like: I will do the dishes, clean whenever I feel to and not be told to, and finally; you are always in the kitchen and cooking, it must be yours). (This last comment stroke quite clearly to stop making more than my single portion when I was cooking, as I was obviously be used by both on cooking time and food buying. So it is also time to split the food into his and mine).

October 20-21-22-23-24

This Monday the cat woke me up at 6am again, and that made me on a shit mood, I also got another dishes related brawl with Colin, which relate to the previous day. It might have been rough from me, but I really had enough of being in a dirty surrounding. I feel he never had much of chance to live in shared accommodation and does not fully care about those issues and especially doesn’t really care in term of respect to others living in.

The cat would finally be doing his day noise every day in the morning for more than a week. Ok some times I will have open the door to quite throw it somewhere else.

The rest of the week was work related, my project started to move from Neutral – nothing happening – into some more concrete views. So basically work just started for me. It took me 3 months in Ethiopia, being frustrated, to actually receive some works and duties. Despite not always fully knowing about the objectives and if it was going fine, that did help my mood as I finally had a purpose on being here. (In any other cases, being in Ethiopia was not something I had looked upon, so being here with too much free time and nothing to do was far from being joyful).

Finally, I also received a first meeting for my work and got some orientation in that regard. I will have to employ staffs and manage budget. That was a very surprising element, which seems to give me a lot of responsibilities in regard to the status I am holding (as an intern) for this NGO. So it will still be really great for experience building and so on but also very stressful and exhausting.

One of those days, I met with Anteneh for the first time. Anteneh is a planner who studied with a friend (BrendanCarlos from HC) in the Netherlands and through whom I got in touch with. He came to the office and we went through the project and the next day he brought me some more paper, his thesis and useful books and we went on the field to analyse the condominium project and see some other slum related development in Addis. It was a good and educative day.

Besides that and being left on my own with my work, I spent some time cooking and talking with Paco (our CS guest) and the days went on some more in Addis.

October 25-26-27-28-29-30

The last week of October!! Soon one month before December and Megan is here. Which is something I await!!! I wish it were the end of November already!

Work wise, things went slower and I spent time at the UN again so that I could make more research with their library and chat online too. My anti-virus seems to be dying and refuse to upgrade so I am spending with this to try to sort it out.

I got some other meetings regarding work and had to produce some paper by this week deadline. I spent some really happy time online with Megan and on my birthday week I was looking forward to it. She made me laugh a few times and I just wished we were together right away, or that time was going slow while we were online instead of me being in the late night.

At the beginning of this week though, Denis finally arrived and Paco was fully happy with that! Hehe! He has had such a story, trying to cross the Red Sea Straight with tiny boat but ending up in Somaliland first and being denied entry to finally just try again to Djibouti. This is when I got the first phone call. Then he made it over here and they were together by the weekend. They moved to a hotel to be together (which after weeks apart is understanding, I would want the privacy too!).

I toured them a bit the city at night and around the slums on their first night in, besides that they prepared us a dinner night on Wednesday which was pretty tasty and great! Rice with Coconut milk!

On Thursday, I got a message that there was a conference going on in town and went to it. It was the Green Forum for Ethiopia. It was interesting and I had some great meal during lunchtime at Ghion Hotel (by the conference). I was amazed how beautiful Ghion Hotel compound looks alike such a great green area and so relaxing.

August 19 - 20 - 21 -22

On the 19th, Laura arrived. She is our third colleague to come from home. So during the day we prepared a bit her arrival and especially got some food and stuff in the house for when she would be there.

In the evening we all went with the car to pick her up at the airport. What a silly system, you need to go to an office to get a ticket to get in the airport then queue to have your ticket checked and then another queue to go through screening. Finally you get into that bloody airport.

That was really a dumb experience. So we made our way home directly and showed her the place. It was especially great to receive my computer's driver cds and also a lot of other threats from home.

So I took some chocolate while immediately working on my computer. She arrived late at night, as most flight does. So the evening went quick and she headed to sleep.

The following days were pretty normal, I got bored with the office as I really had nothing to do by now since I finished reading all materials we had available at the office. So it become pretty frustrating as Colin did have some work but not me and we had meeting were I felt left aside as I had stopped following the goals since it wasn't my task and I couldn't fully follow up in regard of planning.

The 21^st was reserved for a field observation day, which I organised. Since we are working on slums improvement, it is quite the basic point to at least tour the different issues we will meet and have a better understanding of the local situation. So I asked Teferra earlier to set a tour involving a non-improved slum, a slum that received previous improvement project, one of the government condominium project and Aware Market that I read from in some government paper.

So we started the day all jumping into the tiny QQ car heading toYeka to see a condominium project, which had been started by GTZ. The future problems of such settlements are so obvious; it is impossible to understand why such things still continues.

So the buildings are being settled but no services are really showing up, they are left to the community taking over. We definitely know that without support the local communities will not take the appropriate steps in term of waste management, green infrastructure and such.

On our way back to the centre of Addis, we passed through Aware Market, that project is simply on paper. But we could see the receiving base. Actually, some of the side house had been destroyed to receive the upgrading (enlargement) of the road. Will this be a success. I have no idea. Although it was not a nice part to be on, I did some pictures of the type of houses but after a while the local population was being annoyed of us and started ousting us (well making comment, which were quickly translated by Teferra that we will be leaving soon.)

We headed to the city centre to Tekle Haimanot Slum Neighbourhood, in the middle of Addis just off the city centre and Piazza and at the edge of Merkato. This slum had been improved and was a good neighbourhood to walk in as safe and nobody bothered you.

The pavement was improved as well as some basic services. So it was great to see and it made my brain work on brainstorming some issues to find some solutions and management ways. The silly way though was the church land, the church is an extremely powerful element in Ethiopia. Dumbly too powerful and like any Church institution, it simply think and values it own wealth and needs careless of the community of blind followers-believers.

So the church of Tekle Haimanot simply ended up refusing any involvement into the project that was going on in their neighbourhood. Basically, big green plot was under the hand of the church, it was argued that this could become a wonderful place for a green access to the citizens. In result, the church simply barricaded the whole plot in ugly tin foil as a matter to ensure that nobody could then even hope stepping in it (even themselves at the end.)

This still proves my personal thought that churches are a disease to society and that the public realm should really tackle them down. The built heritage of church is a great thing to the community. But the fucking opium that comes with it, definitely is a cancer to the Ethiopian society (and anywhere else too �" think about islam!)

I still found that day pretty interesting, the last place we drove through, as it was too dangerous and not safe enough to do any how else, was to go through the slums of Merkato/Addis Ketema. It is said that even the police never enter such place, and that any attempt of life/slum improvement in this neighbourhood would be welcome by a riot. Seriously, this either means that lord or mafia is being strong in there or that there is an insane feeling going on. I was told my first assumption was wrong, so my only solution to such insanity is to then simply build a wall and let the whole place rot. (Seriously, I can hear the non-sense humanist saying there will be solution, dialogue and whatever… but they don’t realise that sometimes the solution is the one I said above.) I am humanist and such, but I do not believe in peace and I don’t ignore that sometimes the solution is a drastic wipe out of this evil non-sense.

We had a pretty well and educative completed day, I immediately spent the following days writing down some paper in regard to what I had seen and understood from this tour. Poverty is definitely endemic, is it possible to change the situation. I do not believe so, but with the right programs and the no non-sense cultural dumbness stopping a planning work (and I do believe Planning is learning from cultural, but that it is a profession where its mechanisms are fully universal!), there is a possibility to raise some standards.

That Friday, we met for the first time with DUPPI representant, not the official but a planner working for DUPPI to discuss the project. I got updated that the country does not have any policies in regard of slums management, but neither do they have any indicators or official definition of what is a slum. So to me it became a priority to do such paper, as how can you work on the land, if actually nobody has a formal and similar understanding of what is a slum.

I hope that this very busy week for the project would at least involving some tangible result and we would aim at specific objective, but the coming month would prove me wrong and make me even more bitter… as nothing moved and I ended up having nothing to do… again.

August 23 - 24 - 25 - 26 -27 - 28 - 30 - 31

That week end we ended up going to another NGO staff party, well this time it was in Wollo Sefer, quite near our house. We had some nice lunch there and some talk though I feel that the UN/UNICEF/FAO crowd is not really mine, I don’t feel anything in common in term of values and discussion. In fact I find most pretty superficial.

Anyway, we drove all the way up to the north to a house party at an Italian house, drank some more and talked to people as the evening went. The main point being that we met the people from the other NGO that is in the same building as us, one of the only other ‘faranji’ I ever saw around our district.

The following ending days of  August went by in a pretty boring routine mood. Involving supermarket, TV and office.

A hike in Entoto!
At last it was great to get out of Addis and head into the greenish of the surrounding mountains.
So I woke up and prepared and said there is no way I was going to do nothing and stay in. As I was ready and Colin noticed it (as he was so far still in pyjama and heading for the third day of it) I told him I wasn't staying in and going to the mountains.
So that was nice as hiking can be somehow nicer with two.

So we headed out, and took a taxi to Bole. But eh, holiday week end, there was a huge crowd awaiting for minibus and on the direction we were heading at we would have spent the day there, so we walked to Stadium to catch some buses there and did so just as the rain was about to pour down.

That was luck and we were lurking for the bus ride to last long as the rain was really torrential. So much that the streets turned out into river and the bus had to wait for it to pass. We went through Arat Kilo - Siddist Kilo and as we arrived in Shiro Meda, the rain was stopping. That was our luck. Although it was still thunderstorm and lightning we hiked straight up the hill.

About mid-hill we reached the first bus stop and it finally decided to take the minibus up to the top. Once the bus got packed we were ready to go and continued hiking from the Entoto church on top of the mountain and went straight north into the fields following some tiny tractor path.

Once we reached the view on the other side of the mountain, the view open on a large green valley, it was quite a magnificent panorama. It was especially so great to be in the quietness of nature and out of the turbulent noises of Addis. We walked along the path, passing by some farmers and women carrying woods back to Addis (which is an amazing sight, as they carry quite a wide load.)

We then decided to cut back up following a stream, through the herd of goats. We sat down enjoying the view as two young goat herder kids, whom came to us with such great etiquette; we shared cookies until we left.

Back up, we followed a road for some times not knowing where it lead. We stopped for a break and some white runners started to come by, we eventually asked them about the path. So unsure about where to go we simply decided to cut straight through the wood in direction south.

This led us to pass by some traditional hut where some of the villager showed us the path back toward Entoto and this brought us just next to a strange monument. I went near to see what it was about and was astonished to see: Memorial to the death of September 11 … in New York! What!??

After a short distance more we reached Entoto, but we had to jump from stone to stone in a completely muddy path… and Colin missed the rock and went straight through into the mud. Well that was funny!

September 15 - 16 - 17 - 18 - 19 - 20 - 21

On Monday I met with the professor David Amborski who came to deliver a training organised by our institute for Ethiopian planner about Planning Ethics.

The training was going on from Tuesday to Friday (though it was shortened to 3 days). The following day we all went to the Ethiopian Management Institute quite early in the morning where the training was delivered. So for a little while we all felt like being back at University, it was an interesting training though it did raise some more confusion sometimes about my profession.

That night, Colin was leaving to the Dominican Republic, through New York. So I was to have the house for myself for some days. That was somehow welcome as more relaxing and quiet. You know, not having the livelihood weight of being with someone else at home.

On Wednesday, I ended up going to the training on my own behalf. I first took the wrong minibus and then walked for quite a distance before catching some other but I ended up learning a bit more of the city transport by that. And I didn’t arrive late. But it did take me more than an hour, so you can believe for the citizens that relies on public transport how difficult life can be if they have to do all their life amenities.

The annoying thing about the training was that we didn’t have any tasks to do, so at some point we were pretty useless. Sure it was educative, though the professor’s accent was sometimes difficult even for me on the first day but I adjusted quickly, this must have been different for the Ethiopians.

That evening I stopped by the Panorama hotel as we waited for some hours before Teferra picked us all up to go for dinner at a traditional restaurant near our embassy. It was a great evening and the food was of course great (just as was the dinner at the EMI, since it was a fasting day! That was one of the best meal I ever had since being in Ethiopia.)

Thursday was finally the last training day, and consisted mainly of workshop. So we could just wander around. I used the library of the institute and was amazed that they had the Master Plan for Addis Ababa. I have been waiting for that document for my work for about 2 months now!!

In the evening, I walked from the hotel to Laura’s house to wait while we would meet back with the professor to have dinner and some drink. This was a nice but odd night, I walked back home trying to not make it too late but late enough to be pretty tired.

Friday was a last day at the office but a pretty calm one. We started on our report about the training. Then nothing particular actually happened for the whole weekend.

The days went by in a quite relaxing way; I did use the Internet pretty much. By the following week, Laura was sick and ended up at the clinic, so the report writing went delayed but we still had a post-meeting evaluating the previous week training. So we definitely did a mea culpa on what we did wrong and the lack of preparation we had in that regard.

We also ended up talking about my bit of the project, which was technically on hold (if not dead) as I was stuck for weeks and weeks to the point that I had nothing to do until I got told. Teferra organised that we would meet later this week so that I would present the past elements (the criteria) that I worked on so far. It was about time as I did this more than a month ago already.

So I revised it and completed it and we had a presentation about diverse elements as Laura was back already. It was not yet a set of specific indicators meant to tell us about the right place to work in the city, as these details and objectives are definitely still unknown to me. It was more a set of criteria and thematic telling all the issues that should be studied at some point as matter to create a full knowledge of the area we would intend to improve. From there we can set specific indicators that will help us target which neighbourhood we actually really intend to choose between the whole city. It was a good meeting.

 I took a bit of Friday off to relax some more while still thinking or working from home for the following week follow-up meeting on this issue. During the afternoon, I spent some hours with Laura finishing the report (and going to have dinner with the Staff of Operation Smile, another NGO in our building). Later we ended up walked to Meskal Square for the True Cross event, it was so crowded that we were far away and the only thing I could see is some dot dancing in the distance. Then dusk came and the fire lightens in the crowd followed by the main large fire in the square (which created a huge smog as we were leaving the place). A fine event but I am not impressed, more a matter of saying you have been there or been in the crowd (of course take care of your belongings).

September 27 - 28 - 29 - 30

On the 27^th, it was Meskal day (True Cross Festivity). Laura called me early and I started preparing myself so that we headed out and first met around Dombel. It was an extremely sunny day and today was the first time I decided to wear my shorts and seriously there was no regrets. It was so warm, even during the following evening.

Colin had arrived back in early morning and so he was still sleeping. Laura and me decided to head to Mexico Square as every last Saturday of the month, there is suppose to be a NGO fair organised in that area, though where?

We walked around but had no idea where to go so we gave up and walked up the street from Mexico and arrived along Churchill, from there we cut east and went toward Merkato. As it was a holiday, most of the market was dead but there were still plenty of people as we walked by some of the street sellers. The day went by, as we were leaving one guy might have been following for a while maybe as he tried to grab Laura’s necklace. He failed but it was a quick and annoying action. I feel dumb I didn’t see it coming better. Hopefully Laura got back together pretty quick so she didn’t panic too long and it wasn’t too crowded or an annoying spot. We kept on going on not long after toward Piassa. As much as Merkato is a shit-hole, Piassa is pretty great. The historic architecture remains and so is the urban life free of the scum of Merkato. I had never really been or hanged in Piassa but I discovered a great place with cafés and other funky place that make you feel more relax. I definite must.

On Sunday, I simply had to work on my paper to be ready by Monday for the presentation. So my whole day went on this despite that on Monday my presentation got pushed forward to another day and I ended up going to the UN.

Happy Mubarak, a muslim holiday means a day off, though…

I am feeling like shit today, well actually feeling sad, depressed or annoyed… possibly altogether. Yesterday I was pretty angry. I came back from the UN, where the Internet has been shit and that has been for 3 weeks in a row. I have a deep frustration in that regard. It disables me from being efficient with my work, but more especially, I wish I could do all the simple wasteful or day-to-day web browsing. That last bit is just frustrating because it is a habit of me and pretty much what I do with my leisure time. On my way back, I stopped home to have some food then went to the office to use the net again and especially finish with the files I used today and send my paper to my colleagues. The Internet wasn’t working either at the office, it was another pretty frustrating evening and the only minutes I managed to spend talking with Megan where a bit frustrating for me.

I went back home and Colin was gone, the whole dishes all dirty over the counter and the last pieces of bread eaten. Dammed! I found that being pretty selfish; I got into a real mad mood and was understood from outside. All the frustration accumulated in the shared accommodation, life abroad, quite went out.

I went to sleep to forget it though it didn’t make weeks pass through but just a few hours.

So this morning, my mood was fine, fine enough to go through with the day. I went out for a walk as matter to get an empty head and be out of the house. I mainly thought about work during that time then by the evening I went to the office. The Internet was crap again, I only talked a few lines with Megan but with the mood I was in, I just got sarcastic and angry. But anyway I was pretty angry at that short discussion. I am feeling angry and even more in hate of life. In my mood I used the time online to go through Megan’s old blog (yeah what else to do when you already have dark thought).

Anyway, I am not going to discuss about that.

I am wondering about relationship, the way of, why am I getting into one. Not about the relation in itself, but more that I know what the finality of them. The fact that I might be more someone meant to be alone, that I most certainly won’t be a good person that despite the great time there will be dark and the bad. I hate happiness, as the reverse of that medal awaits you across the corner. If I can avoid it then you know you can’t get lower than you are. I don’t think I am the right she would wish to be with. Am I jealous of her past? I don’t know, I don’t think so, but I could more certainly not be a suitable person. She ask me about not to compare, but nope that’s not really something I can comply. To me past is a continuum, difference shows uncertainty and I might not necessarily take some things necessarily well… especially as matter of opinions. I don’t life is confusing and so am I.

I am tired of life; I am asocial and not suitable for many things. I doubt pretty much of my skills and sometimes in the current economical situation (we are heading toward a major crisis no), I probably won’t have much of a place. Anyway, I am as from time to time, getting tired of life. I sometimes wish I was back in those few specific times at home and that it never went any forward, no Europe, no such.

So today is the end, the end of the month, a moment where I am getting pretty tired. I could also think about all my past years, being at different part of the world without any specific connection keeps me at a fresh renewal every time.

Back in my San Francisco life, I am involved as a “young leader” in an organization called the American Jewish Committee.  This is one of America’s first civil rights groups -  established in 1906 to promote pluralistic and democratic societies where all minorities are protected. AJC is an international think tank and advocacy organization that attempts to identify trends and problems early - and take action. 

Back in November while I was finishing my 10-day silent Buddhist meditation experience in north India, I received an invitation to join 14 young AJC ambassadors on a political, cultural and educational trip to Ethiopia.  I accepted.

We spent 10 days together traveling around the country and meeting with various representatives including the US Ambassador, the Israeli Ambassador, the Ethiopian Minister of European Affairs and several NGO’s including the International Rescue Committee and the Clinton Foundation.  We visited poverty-stricken schools in Addis (and helped paint them), and various medical and health-oriented institutions. 

We got to travel with Dr. Rick Hodes to Gonder where we visited northern tribes to give iodine tablets (prevents blindness) and de-worming pills to every child and pregnant women that we saw.

Forcing life-altering medicine down a poor African child’s throat will change you. Forever.

Land in Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines 900, leaving 1:40 pm, arriving 9:00 pm.

Ethiopian Airlines flies to Ethiopia and also runs domestic flights. If you fly in/out of Ethiopia with them you qualify for discounted domestic fares if there's two of you. The domestic fare must be booked together with the international so its best to do it through an agent ... not sure if the website will apply this discount if you manage to get it to do a complex itinerary like that. Our experience with them were fine: flights were on time, they make a good attempt to feed and water you on board even on short flights. The domestic fleet is getting a bit worn but still more bearable than the buses ... one short flight is equivalent to a day on the bus!

We stayed for our first 3 days in that hotel, the wireless Internet offered in the rooms was really fast, reliable and great. For this reason (the fact that we never got any such quick Internet elsewhere in Addis) we pretty much already enjoyed our stay. We took the double room, the hotel is new in Addis and the installation were really decent and clean, enough pressure with the water. They offer a safe deposit system which was pretty good on reinsuring us on our first days in Africa. The surrounding district was decent and safe enough to not have to worry being out after dark. I found the staff being really polite and professionnal. It is not an hostel, but the price were affordable for the average wallet. Personally recommendable.

This was the third leg of our trip: Phoenix - New York, New York - Dubai, Dubai - Addis Ababa and finally Addis Ababa - Entebbe. The hotel wake-up call came through promptly at 6:00 a.m., I was awake 2 hours earlier unable to sleep due to the time change. Desire did not seem to have been affected by it at all as she continued to sleep. Finally I, was able to get her into the shower: we decide to have coffee and tea at the airport to avoid any delays and being rushed. We waited on Kevin whom I had invited to come join us in Kampala until he could figure out where his colleagues were and what arrangements they had for him. After writing a few post cards, I looked around and could not see Kevin still, so I assumed he had taken an earlier shuttle. Desire and I took the next shuttle to the airport.

So we left, and the flight went one without any particular incident. KLM was proving was better than NWA actually and we did have better food, better blankets and pillows and entertainment in our seat. So I watch some of the movies or slept for most of the length of the flight, without forgetting to have a glimpse through window. That allowed me to see the Austrian Alps, the Italian coast, the Libyan coast and then … the Sahara! I was sleeping and waking up to look to notice that vast brown area beneath with no life and just from time to time a difference in texture and physical relief. I think I even saw the Sudanese and Egyptian border, as I can’t see any other explanation for a sudden dark straight line appearing in the desert.

A few hours later, we landed in Khartoum which was definitely a peak in our journey. At first, the plane started going down as we saw the Nile and the greenness it brings to the shore. I even distinguished some square clay house as we were still in high altitude. Not long after the city of Khartoum bloomed under us from random square house to a few tower block (even a modern one) and then suddenly we landed on the airport strip. That was a great amazement, plenty of UN plane awaiting near the hangar, artillery cannons by the strip and at the beginning of it, the remains of 2 burned destroyed planes. We taxied around and change passengers at destination of Khartoum for some at destination Addis Ababa, refuelled and had the Sudanese worker came in to clean the plane.

We took off Khartoum while it was dark, so there was nothing interesting to see anymore until we landed. Then the process of immigration was no hassle except for the fact that the queues were anarchic. We collected our bags and strangely had to go through another screening before walking out the airport (!?), as it was stated that any foreign currency was not allowed, I took my money belt in my pocket instead of letting it in my bag just in case (as it is none of their fucking business which money I have).

Once out, we had to look for Tefarra through the whole crowd picking up passengers, after passing twice looking at the signs, I noticed him and we greeted each other. We walked out to his car and start driving, my first sight of Addis Ababa, by night! We drove on a fairly large road (the ring road) in direction of the city smelling the burned coal used in heating, and that was surprising, it was really cold!

Underneath the viaducts and bridge there was crowd of people sticking along together to sleep, not long after we arrived at our hotel: Panorama Hotel. Not long after, we stepped out again for a night tour of the city, Tefarra took us by car along the main roads, the main offices building and all the such were I got a view on both the lifestyle and poverty to the extreme richness of the Sheraton Hotel where 5000$/night can rent you a tiny villa on their estate. Walking along the Sheraton estate gave you the wrong impression that you were actually in Monaco.

On the way back, we bought a sandwich by a tiny shop (not the tastiest thing, but ok) and went back to the hotel. Tefarra left us there and specified we had access to the Internet from our room, so we definitely rushed to our laptop and I had the chance to write some email and talk to Megan! That was great. After some hours, I felt asleep exhausted.

July 23

We slept most of the morning and around noon Tefarra came to pick us, although his baby daughter was sick and he couldn’t put his mind at something else. So we said that he probably should deal with her before even spending the time with and suggested he take her to the hospital immediately instead of delaying it. So we drove to his house and then picked the mother and daughter before heading downtown to the hospital. In the meantime, he left us to a snack bar where I had some sort of home made pasta but I was not extremely hungry to be finishing my plate. We walked around the snack-bar still making sure to not end up too far as we didn’t know when Tefarra would pick us up, neither knew where we are or the local customs. As the only white person in the whole street (and so far and remaining as such, the whole day) we weren’t sure either of ourselves.

Again, we drove around for the whole day seeing different part of the city and of the life of the city but with not landmark or map we couldn’t really know where we were standing at. We drove through wide paved road with wild traffic, through side suburban dirt road with huge pot holes and rocks passed by donkeys and horse cart. We passed next to office buildings, shacky selling stands made of iron, people begging or people selling rubbish stuff along the road and construction site wrapped by strange scaffolding.

Later during the afternoon, we went to visit a compound house for rent, it looked fine. The price is huge though, especially as everything comes out our own pocket. We also passed by the of