Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Zlatna džezva Mostar Reviews
Kahvu mi, draga, ispeci! Make me a coffee, darling! Aug 15, 2015
Bosnian coffee set is among the twelve greatest treasures of Europe together with chocolate in Brussels, paprika in Budapest, silk in Florence, fragrances in Istanbul, tiles in Lisbon, hats in London, guitar in Madrid, umbrellas in Paris, Street Art in Berlin, design in Copenhagen, and toys in Prague.
To understand Bosnians, you must first understand the importance of coffee. Bosnians usually spend at least half an hour in sitting and drinking coffee while enjoying the conversation with neighbors or friends. In city's old parts there are many shops where a traditional coffee set can be bought as a nice souvenir.
Preparing traditional coffee became a custom from the Ottoman time in Bosnia. There are several steps how to make coffee at home. First fry beans in šiš on the weak fire, then hail and pestle in hand mills. Then heat a teaspoon of coffee gently in a pot( dzezva) for a few seconds and pour a boiling water almost to the top of the pot. Then stir it and wait for it to rise to the top of the coffee brewing pot to make a fine mousse, remove it from the fire and wait till grout settle down, then add a few drops of cold water. The bottom of the coffee brewing pot must be wider then the top. Then pour coffee into cups( fildzan) and serve on the special coin trays with rahatlokum( Turkish delight) with flavor of rose or with chopped walnuts and a glass of cold spring water.
In Bosnian homes, the first coffee that is served to the guests is called "dočekuša"( doček means a reception,a welcome).
The second coffee served during the same visit is called "razgovoruša"( razgovor is a conversation) after a meal or cake. It is served after the question "shall we have one more?"
The third is the most famous of all, it is called "sikteruša"( after a Turkish word in Bosnia meaning: go away!) after which you should finally go home. Sikteruša is known to be made from the residue of razgovoruša. It is that wicked coffee that drives you to the bathroom right after the first sip. When the guest do not have the mercy to leave, the hostess gets up and makes a new coffee from the grout. The coffee tastes pale with little or no cream, because the best is gone with a second coffee a few hours ago.
There are many other kinds/names for served coffee in Bosnia.
Coffee razdrijemuša/razgalica( razgaliti- to humor) is the first morning's coffee, strong, similar to the Italian espresso, which serves to awaken you and prepare for another day. Coffee nadolijevuša is a second coffee cooked from the remainings with added water( nadoliti means to add the water).
Coffee šutkuša( šutiti- to keep silent) is an afternoon's coffee when you sit in a calm and settled mood, served between 5- 7 in the late afternoon.
Zlatna dzezva, a coffee brand from Vispak, Visoko- Guinness World Record
The biggest coffee pot in the world was first tested in Mostar in 2004, when only a few hours a world record in the "cooking and drinking" 650 liter or 8,000 Bosnian cup of coffee was achieved, which was sufficient for entry into the Guinness Book.
Since then, over three million people in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Turkey, Slovenia, Croatia, Germany, Austria, China, Macedonia and other countries tried coffee from the giant coffepot. It was created in the summer of 2004 in Bašcaršija, Sarajevo. For one charge it takes about 65 kg of coffee.
The Vispak coffee company prepares degustation several times in a year on different places. One of them is also each year in Mostar on last Sunday in July during the diving competition from the Old Bridge.
Part of the The Spirit of Bosnia travel blog
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