Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)

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Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) Phnom Penh Reviews

BabyRedKnuckles BabyRedK…
18 reviews
Educational and eye opening Jan 18, 2015
This is the second time I've been here and the whole experience has been improved.

It's an emotional place to visit but one that should be visited by everyone who goes to Phnom Penh. The experience is set around various buildings which were used to house and torture prisoners. Many of the rooms are still set up like they were and you can walk around the rooms where they housed the prisoners.

Along the way there are photos of the rooms as they were and there are also photos of all the prisoners who were housed there.

One room that I got the most out of was the one giving an update on the trials of those responsible.

Overall it feels strange to say, but it's a great experience to visit and one that has stayed with me afterwards.
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WalterC WalterC
325 reviews
Don't miss at all, even if the subject is very unsettling Nov 29, 2014
Located in the center of town, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a site that should be visited by any visitor to Phnom Penh, along with the Killing Fields.

Also known as S-21, it was originally a high school, that got converted to a prison and interrogation center when the Khmer Rouge came to power in 1975. As you walk around the building, you can see the scars of the building from that terrible era.

Inside the rooms, you can really see that they were once classrooms. There are graphic photos of victims in some of the rooms, after being tortured very badly. Just horrible to see. One room has a bunch of prison cells that were built into them.

Also, there is a display of the victims on the wall. Plus some devices used for torture, like stretching their victims to unbelievable limits, and the gallows, where people were hung upside down, and dunked into jars of water (which is often very dirty) to wake victims up if they passed out.

After being interrogated for a very long time, which could be hours or even days, victims were taken to the Killing Fields, where they were executed or forced into hard labor.

The horrors would finally end in 1979, when Vietnamese troops liberated the country from the Khmer Rouge. Only about 7 people survived going through S-21, out of thousands.

Now, I have been told that S-21 should be visited first, before the Killing Fields, and I could see why. Because this was where the horrors started for the Cambodian people. So if wanting to visit this place first, make sure you say “S-21” rather than “museum”, if you want to come to this place first.

Bu regardless which order you go, this place is a must-visit, for any visitor to Cambodia, as we should all learn about what happened, and never forget, and hope that history will never repeat itself.
entrance
memorial to the victims
gallows
jars filled with dirty water, to w…
2 / 2 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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cthulu says:
I met one of the 7 survivors - Bou Meng - when he was there selling his book.
Posted on: May 05, 2015
WalterC says:
I know, and even harder to believe that it was recently.
Posted on: May 03, 2015
vulindlela says:
So hard to think that people could do this...
Posted on: May 03, 2015
christl3 christl3
171 reviews
Harrowing, Disturbing, Tragic, Emotional eye-opener Nov 18, 2012
The S-21 Genocide museum is such an overwhelming experience!

Toul Sleng Prison was a former primary and secondary school before the destructive reign of the insane Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge butchers. In 1975 the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh and within three days evacuated all of the civilians to the countryside in order to work them to the bone on farms for 12-hour days without pay. Effective slaves! This rendered the cities all over Cambodia ghost towns, nobody lived there except the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot believed in radical Communism and over the next four years in Cambodia attempted the most extreme revoultion and genocide ever attempted in world history. He shut down schools, hospitals, offices and banks. He believed the way forward for his new communist Cambodia lay in the hands of the rural farmers and the productivity of the land as opposed to the teaching and education of it's people. He saw educated people like doctors, teachers and lawyers were his enemies and killed them and their families immediately.

Toul Sleng was a prison that housed hundreds of 'enemies of the state' at any one given time. Some of the cells were mass detention cells where they kept copious amounts of people with their ankles bound to steel shackles. Here they waited to be called out for interrogation.

The individual interrogation cells were the most harrowing as in the centre of each room lay a metal bed frame where the prisoners were tied up and repeatedly and inhumanely tortured until they made confessions where they admitted to being against the regime, whether they actually were or not. On the floor you can still see blood splatters. On the walls are black and white photographs that the Vietnamese soldiers took when they liberated the prison in 1979. The photographs show horrendous, appaling images of corpses of prisoners who had been tortured to death. Fourteen of these corpses were found when the prison was liberated and it is these final 14 victims that are buried in the courtyard of the prison.

The prison is laid out with a courtyard in the middle and 5 long buildings along the sides with three-stories each. When looking from the hallway of the top floor you can see the wonderful flower-blooming tree in the centre, shedding it's delicate flowers on the ground. The contrast between the simplicity and beauty of this tree and the barbaric acts perpretrated here is interesting to muse over.

The Khmer Rouge rigorously documented every prisoner over the years and all of their photos are on display. They all stare blankly from the multitude of plaques on the walls. I wonder if any of them knew the fate that awaited them, as nearly every one of them was eventually murdered.

There is also a wall of pictures of the S-21 Khmer Rouge guards, who were all between 13 and 18 years of age. Pol Pot believed in recruiting young and indoctrinating and terrifying these children into submission and obedience. Whenever there is even a hint of questioning on their part, the regime would dispose of them also.

The prison also housed women and many children as 'enemies of the state'. Tell me how could a 5 year old child threaten a corrupt political regime?

There were only seven known survivors, 5 of which are dead. Two are still alive and are regularly seen around the ground of the prison. They both wrote books and they are sold on the grounds in English for $10. These survivors were lucky to walk away with their lives. This only happened because they had special skills that interested and gained the approval of the guards. One of them was a sculptor who made busts of Pol Pot for the guards and another was a painter who was used to paint pictures.

The tour guide we hired for $2 dollars each was a woman who had lost her father and brother during those dark years and has still no idea where they are or if they died or lived. This was extremely moving. It really hits home that the war effected the present day people of Cambodia so strongly because it was only 30 years ago. They all lost somebody and they have a collective pain that is quite apparent while strolling through the prison grounds.

It is important to see places like these, to reflect on your life and to understand the history of the countries you travel to.
The outside of one of the sections…
The prison rules
Busts of Pol Pot. They have been h…
6 / 6 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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monky says:
Congrats on yur featured review!:)
Posted on: Nov 29, 2012
simsing says:
Congrats on the feature!
Posted on: Nov 29, 2012
Vikram says:
2$ is really cheap for such a great tour. Thanks for your review, really nice and unique place.
Posted on: Nov 29, 2012
cotton_foam cotton_f…
263 reviews
institution for education before the mid-70's that turned into a horrible prison camp Jul 29, 2012
Toul Svay is an institution for learning, but from 1975 to 1979, had transformed into a primitive prison and interrogation center. Toul Svay Secondary School was in a quiet neighborhood in Phnom Penh, but instead of students enjoying their studies and youth, there were thousands of victims imprisoned fearing for their lives. The used to be an open campus, they enclosed it with corrugated iron and barbed wires around the perimeter. Classrooms no longer furnished with blackboards, chair, and desks but divided into individual cells, or housed rows of prisoners secured by shackles.

An estimated twenty thousand imprisoned victims were in Security Prison 21, or S21 as it became known. Teachers, students, doctors, monks and peasants suspected of anti-revolutionary behavior were brought here, often with their spouses and children. They were a subject to horrific tortures, and then killed or taken to extermination camps outside the city.

In 1978, the brutal regime ended by the invasion of Vietnamese forces. The prison is now a museum and monument to the thousands of Cambodians who suffered at the hands of the Khmer Regime. The entire campus is now keep from the way it originally found during the invasion. Near the entrance are four niches, apparently, it belongs to the four victims, found hideously disfigured in the individual cells at the time of the invasion. Their remains buried in the school ground.

It is a thoroughly depressing place to visit. Moreover, it is not until the pictures of the victims, blood stains on the walls and instruments of torture to get any idea of the scale of suffering endured by the Cambodian people.

The museum is open from 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. EVERY DAY.

Entrance fee was US$6.00 at that time of our visit.

It is a self-governing tour.

Visitors are allowed to take pictures.

Bring sufficient bottled water when visiting. There are no refreshment stores inside the museum compound.

It is all right to visit S21 after visiting the Killing Fields or do vice versa. The order does not matter actually. We hire a tuk-tuk to get to both of the places, and the driver waited for us outside the park. After we had done touring the monument park, the tuk-tuk driver brought us to S-21.

We allotted two hours for the memorial park outside the city and another two hours for the S-21 museum.
3 / 3 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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cotton_foam says:
@ Ems: hahaha! Probably! :D
Posted on: Mar 06, 2015
cotton_foam says:
@ Walter: same here! The tuktuk driver brought us first to at the Killing Fields before the Genocide Musem S-21
Posted on: Mar 06, 2015
WalterC says:
I ended up seeing the Killing Fields first, when the tuk-tuk driver took me there by mistake instead of S-21 first, when telling him to take me to "museum".
Posted on: Mar 06, 2015
Erna Erna
5 reviews
Not for the faint- hearted Jun 10, 2012
How doi start writing a review for the most horrific place I've ever been? Perhaps not so terrible now but the history of the place is definitely bloodied. I went in with already an inkling of what to expect. I read the reviews of the place, seen pictures abouti it as well as watched short documentary about the place. I was with a guide as my partner in crime refused to enter the place - he has been there a few years ago and said that the place has affected him. So I hired a guide - abt $6 US and then proceeded to listeni to his briefing about the place.

The pictures, the cells and stains of blood still apparent, the torture chambers, the picture of children, affected me. I cried painfully connecting the pictures to victims who actually suffered and child soldiers who committed the atrocities. Being a south east asian myself, the pictures were just too close to home. It could have been my people. And it made me realize how thin the line is. With one charismatic leader and an outrageous belief, hundreds and thousands of people were affected.

Anyway, went out from the place with tear stained cheeks, walking to my partner who was waiting at a cafe nearby. Seeing my ace, he told me to sit down and to be calm before going to CHA nearby. It's a charity shop which caters jobs and a tally has a school to help victims of the land mines.

So yeah visit it to appreciate humanity and how frail life is :).
2 / 2 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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JacobChr JacobChr
7 reviews
A truly emotional experience Feb 08, 2011
The S-21 Prison is a truly emotional experience. Before going to S-21 I watched the movie/documentary “S-21: The Khmer Rouge Killing Machine”. The movie is about some survivors from S-21 who confront their former Khmer Rouge captors. It’s a very emotional film, and you hear the stories from both the prisoners who were tortured in the prison and the jailors who committed the genocide. When I watched the movie, I was quite surprised that I didn’t feel more anger or hate against the people who committed the gruesome deeds. In that way the film succeeds in telling what happened from both perspectives. This is a perfect but unfortunate example about how people can be persuaded into committing gruesome things to other people when an insane person like Pol Pot can rule a country. I can only recommend watching it together with the movie “The Killing Fields” before visiting Cambodia.

In that way I thought I was prepared for S-21, but nothing can really prepare you for the sheer ugliness that took place in these buildings in the 1970s. An estimated 17000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng and repeatedly tortured and forced into naming family members and friends, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. Only seven people survived.

When you walk around the buildings you see the cells where the prisoners were shackled to long pieces of iron bar. Prisoners were routinely beaten and tortured with electric shocks, searing hot metal instruments and hanging. Some prisoners were cut with knives or suffocated with plastic bags. Other methods for generating confessions included pulling out fingernails while pouring alcohol on the wounds, and holding prisoners’ heads under water.

For the first year of S-21’s existence, corpses were buried near the prison. However, by the end of 1976, they ran out of burial spaces, and instead the prisoners were taken to the Killing Fields extermination centre.

In some of the rooms, you can read the stories of the few survivors. It’s hard not to shed a tear when reading these stories and you can’t stop thinking what can make people become so cruel to each other.

You see some photos of Comrade Duch who was one of the Khmer Rouge leaders and the guy who ran S-21. In one of the photos somebody used a pencil to write “Evil” in his eyes. Duch was convicted of crimes against humanity in 2010. Unfortunately Pol Pot died before being convicted.

Going to S-21 is essential. At the minimum to learn about the horrible things that took place and show respect to the people who died here.
Tortured prisoners
Horrible photos
The rules of S-21
Torture instruments
1 / 1 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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JacobChr says:
I'm quite sure that the museum is open on weekends. I think it's closed on Mondays only.
Posted on: May 21, 2012
d2amy d2amy
178 reviews
Haunting Oct 25, 2010
This museum is not for the faint at heart. The museum is housed in the quarters of Phnom Penh where Pol Pot and his followers interrogated, tortured, and killed his “enemies”. There are bloodstains left on walls, and a lot of the original weapons are left in the rooms they were used in. I went on a particularly overcast day, which added to the dramatic feeling of hatred towards Pol Pot when you walk through this museum. If you go to Phnom Penh, you must go here and to the killing fields. If you skip either of these places, you’re left with feeling like you’re a horrible person to not learn about the genocide that happened only 30 years ago.

Although it’s not exactly a chipper experience, you can always head to Happy Pizza on Riverside after to make your woes disappear for a while.
1 / 1 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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d2amy says:
I'm almost positive they are. I feel like they wouldn't close down anything on the weekend in Cambodia, not in Phnom Penh anyways.
Posted on: May 22, 2012
Duncan_Stuart Duncan_S…
5 reviews
Unbelievably moving experience. You come face to face with humanity. Feb 28, 2009
No, it's not going to be a pretty visit. This humble little city school was once the scene of unbelievable brutality - torture and death and around 20,000 people were murdered here: so a visit brings you face to face with humanity. The scene is quiet, contemplative, and preserved just as it was in the 1970s when Pol Pot's young soldiers - many were just teenagers with machine guns - rounded up citizens on the slightest pretext. For wearing glasses. (Sign of intellectual.) For averting your eyes the wrong way. For...for everything and nothing. Then, taken here, victims were imprisoned, tortured to confess to sins they never committed - and photographed before being executed.

The heart of this museum is the colleciton of photos - old people, young, some of them just kids - with numbers pinned to their chests. They stare at you, some blank, some defiant - all of them going through unimaginable horror.

There is also a video documentary that is worth seeing.

When I was there a group of us, from the UK, USA and NZ just sat there sobbing. As one of the group said: "How could the rest of the world let this happen?"

But come here. Do it to honour the victims and remember them. Do it to learn about yourself.
The classrooms were divided into t…
1 / 1 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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Duncan_Stuart says:
I'm pretty sure it is open on Saturdays. I'm not sure about Sundays.
Posted on: May 21, 2012
thenewextrememimi thenewex…
57 reviews
Dec 28, 2007
S21 is the infamous prison where almost 20,000 men, women and children were interned, tortured and sent to await death for supposedly being spies against the Khmer Rouge. The prisoners were kept in tiny cells with a metal box for a toilet, tortured until they named other supposed spies, and eventually taken to Choeung Ek killing field for execution. Only 4 people survived S21.

Today, the prison is the site of the Genocide Musuem. For $6 you can take a tour of the prison, or go on your own for cheaper. There is a documentary that is shown twice a day, and an exhibition of photographs of both prisoners and prison guards. People have written over and defaced all of the photos of the prison guards, in which you can see the pain that still lingers in a country that generally has only bright smiles for tourists to see. One of the four survivors was kept alive by painting pro-Khmer Rouge propaganda paintings; after he was freed he painted the true horrors of the prison, and these paintings are shown throughout the museum as well.
Cell at S21
2 / 2 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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Sandvand Sandvand
1 reviews
Oct 12, 2007
A visit to Tuol Sleng Museum is a shocking experience, displaying the most evil forces humans are capable of portraying. Yet I would recommend anyone to visit this museum. It gives you a deep insight into the troubled recent history of Cambodia.
1 / 1 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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korrahh korrahh
12 reviews
Jun 13, 2006
Tuol Sleng (means poison hill) is a primary school in Phnom Penh that became S-21 a notorious concentration camp for the Khymer Rouge regime. I noticed sign that said “genocide museum” on the main road and turned down a small lane to the front gate. From the outside it didn’t look very out of the ordinary, just a regular old school with rusty barbwire on the fence, if it weren’t for the sign on the gate I would have walked past it. I went in and took a pamphlet, no one asked me to pay so I turned right and went on.

The first thing I noticed was some graves in the courtyard. The first building to the right was probably the administration building. In each of the four rooms were a steel bed, a leg manacle, and ammunition box. On the wall was a large picture of a dead tortured person manacled to the bed. Apparently the graves in the courtyard held the bodies of these last victims, killed only hours before the Vietnamese discovered the place, the rooms were left as they were. This was a grim enough introduction but worse horrors were to come.

Out in the exercise ground was an extra tall and sturdy pull-up bar under this was a large earthenware urn full of muddy rainwater. The illustration and board explained that this was used to torture prisoners. The prisoners had their hands bound behind their backs and hung up the bar by their hands causing their shoulders to dislocate. They were then brought down and half-drowned in putrid liquids in the urn.

The next building in the center of the school was the interrogation house and had a large haunting display of mug shots of prisoners and guards. The Khymer Rouge didn’t have enough time to destroy their meticulous documentation of their crimes in the face of an oncoming Vietnamese invasion. It was a weird feeling to see the faces of all these people who would never be seen again and who would end their lives in the worst possible ways. Men, women, children, old, young, even a westerner, and a couple of Indians, they are now just a staring face on the display boards. The guards were a mere rabble of juveniles, it’s amazing how easily children, when trained, can do the most heinous acts. The reasoning of the KR was that children are pure of decadent west poison so they are qualified to sniff out treason. Much like Mao’s Red Guard of the Cultural Revolution and most Communist/totalitarian regimes they were quick to realize that people are not born with morals, these are taught, and their natural conscience, which stops excess, can be desensitized to uselessness. On display were the crude instruments of torture, there was nothing sophisticated with these impovised farm implements.Wire whips, pick axe handles, iron bars etc to use these against innocent chained humans is something only heavily conditioned/controlled (by fear, mob behaviour, ideology, mind control etc,) or innately sadistic/mentally ill people can do. Paintings on the wall by one of the survivors show the hellish conditions and cruel tortures in graphic detail. The waterboarding devise was a metal bench and oil drum.

The next building had the cells, one large hall must have held hundreds of prisoners. They were all made to lie prone packed like sardines each prisoner’s ankle was manacled to an iron rebar. It’s impossible to imagine the agony endured in that place, the pain that sunk down in the worn clay tiles. With the intense tropical humidity they wore only underwear to survive, their skin was diseased with close contact and poor hygiene. Metal ammunition cases served as toilets, they were never unshackled. The verandah and windows were enclosed with rusty barbwire.

The upper levels had the solitary confinement cells. Walking down the narrow corridor with dark closet-like wooden cells on both sides was a ghastly horror, the atmosphere was heavy and oppressive. The brick cells were much the same, grim and dungeon-like, the walls must have echoed the screams of its enclosed victims. Now there was only a deathly silence broken only by the faint laughs of squatters playing volleyball behind the school.

I finished my tour with a room of pictures and biographic material about the victims and torturers in this place. About 17,000 people entered the gate as detainees only 12 survived. The last room had a display case of browning skulls piled in a heap the skulls had holes and cracks in the craniums. A painting showed how most of the detainees ended their lives at the “killing fields” the blindfolded victims were lined up and their brains dashed out with a wood ox cart axle. It was now late afternoon and the shadows became long and eerie.

I had enough of the inhumanity of man. Another glimpse into the primordial instincts of man and where they led, Maoist and atheistic socialism is yet another of the ideologies of destruction, pain, and hate. I walked away with a sick feeling and a heavy heart. How could this all be done in the name of improving society? When you take away all restraints and turn social order and authority on its head you get these crimes time and again. If there is no God then in the end man only has to answer to man and only the powerful men survive.
1 / 1 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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Biedjee Biedjee
161 reviews
gruesome piece of history Jan 10, 2005
Visiting the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek was an impressive, but somewhat surreal experience. It was hard to imagine what the Killing Fields really looked like during the Khmer Rouge regime.

Well, what the Killing Fields lacked in realism, was made up for by the Tuol Sleng S-21 Prison Museum.

In 1975 the Khmer Rouge turned this high school into a prison, known as Security Prison 21 (S-21) and it was here where more than 17,000 people -including many Westerners- were tortured before being transported to extermination camps like Choeung Ek.

The appearance of the place hasn't changed much since Phnom Penh was liberated by the Vietnamese army in 1979. The only thing they changed were the bodies of the last 11 victims who had been murdered minutes before the Vietnamese arrived. Pictures of how the bodies had been found now grace the walls in the

This is by far the most gruesome and revolting place I have ever visited. It is not hard to imagine the atrocities that took place in this prison: the instruments of torture, the tiny cells, the thousands and thousands of pictures of men, women and children who had been tortured and murdered, all meticulously documented by the Khmer Rouge.

Though the floors have been cleaned, you can still see the stains created by the pools of blood on the floor. In the cells you can see the scratches on the walls and doors made by the fingernails of prisoners clawing at the doors in desperation.

It is a horrible, horrible place, but also a very important piece of history, as it shows the darkest side of humanity, and what people are capable of under the right circumstances.

I visited this museum as part of a day-tour, and the next stop was a local market where we could go shopping or have some food. After visiting this museum shopping and food were the last things on my mind.
Tuol Sleng prison
One of the torture chambers
Tuol Sleng prison
Tuol Sleng museum
2 / 2 TravBuddies found this review helpful/trustworthy
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edsander edsander
69 reviews
Most shocking experience of my life ... Oct 25, 2005
And then it was off to the Tuol Sleng Museum, or Security Prison 21 (S21) where the Khmer Rouge had detained and tortured 17.000 people before ending their lives at the Killing Fields we visited yesterday. You might think that seeing the Killing Fields would prepare you for S21. Well, think again. Nothing can prepare you for such absolute inhumanity and terror and I can easily say that this was the most shocking thing I have ever seen in my life. I've was walking around feeling fits of nausea and utter despair at what people are seemingly capable of.

The Khmer Rouge had a very efficient way of administrating their doings at S21. Every prisoner got a number when he or she came in and was photographed with the date on which they were brought to the Killing Fields. People who died at S21 during torture were also photographed. One of the building sections is filled with row upon row of photo's of the prisoners deported. Thousands of people. Innocent people who were killed just because they were (thought to be) intellectuals (e.g. if they wore glasses) or opponents of the regime. Man, women and children.

And if this wasn't enough madness, another section of the buildings was reserved as 'VIP rooms' (as our guide Sophie called them). This is where high ranking Khmer Rouge officials that had been detained and tortured in the 'privacy of their own room'. Seemingly nobody was save from the Khmer Rouge, not even their own people. When Phnom Penh was liberated by the Vietnamese in 1979 the liberators took pictures which are displayed in these VIP rooms. It shows the people being horribly tortured while chained to the beds. The only other object in the room besides the matressless bed was a small metal box which proved to be a toilet. As if all of this wasn't horrible enough, the walls and ceilings (!) still showed traces of blood.

Another building was filled with tiny little cells of brick or wood. The balconies of this building were blocked by barbed wire to ensure that the prisoners couldn't commit suicide by jumping off. The cells themselves measured one by two meters. The two most moving moments for me where a big picture of a woman with a baby and the 'guestbook'. The woman in the picture had been the wife of a high ranking Khmer Rouge official, but for some reason she and her baby had been killed in S21 anyway. A tear was rolling down her cheek.

I almost didn't notice the guestbook. It was lying on a chair on one of the floors of a building where paintings of the horrible tortures were on exhibition. I opened it and it turned out to be filled with remarks of visitors of the museum, in many different languages. As you can imagine these remarks were very, very emotional. They echoed and strengthened my own feelings and filled my eyes with tears.

I'll not go into all of the gruesome ways of torture that the Khmer Rouge had invented and which were displayed in the pictures and paintings. Suffice it to say that it's beyond my understanding that a human being can think of something like that and actually bring it into practice. The biggest mystery is perhaps the question 'why?'. What on earth did they have to gain from these unspeakable acts? Again I left another 'highlight' of the journey in a state of shock.

As with the Killing Fields, a visit to S21 is essential to understanding the history of Cambodia and experiencing the utter cruelty that the human race is capable of. Utterly depressing but highly recommended.
Tuol Sleng Museum, or Security Pri…
Tuol Sleng Museum, or Security Pri…
Tuol Sleng Museum, or Security Pri…
Tuol Sleng Museum, or Security Pri…
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