Things to know before going

1. There are now three (!) Hummers in Aleppo.

2. Aleppo is safe enough to walk around at 3 or 4 in the morning - even for women. Try doing that in a similarly-sized city in America.

3. If someone mentions a Christian place in Aleppo and you want to guess where it is, say Aziziyeh. Eighty-six percent of the time you will be right.

4. You’re not allowed to leave town until you’ve dined at Wane’s. Seriously. Ask the guys at Customs.

5. Despite Syria’s reputation, Aleppo is a shining example of how Christians, Muslims, Kurds, Armenians, etc. can live side by side in relative harmony.

6. The best jubneh in Mohafezah is found at the shawarma shack across from Dar al-Fiqr, not Sahtayn or Slav.

7. Remember that bumper sticker that said “My other car is a Porsche”? Here, their other mobile is an iPhone. And probably with a Bluetooth to boot.

8. The kids in Aleppo probably know more about Western music than you do. Don’t question it. Just understand and accept that reality.

9. Don’t believe everything you read (or hear) about Aleppo. Except that this city has the best food in Syria.

10. And last but not least, when you visit Aleppo, please. Keep your city beauty.