The Modern New York Reviews
Excellent dining for a museum restaurant Mar 26, 2011
The Modern is attached to MoMA, the Museum of Modern Art, and serves French-American food. The chef, Gabriel Kreuther, is from Alsace, which is why I chose this restaurant, but the menu is not heavily Alsatian influenced in my opinion. Before I get to the food, I must say that there were two things that bothered me about my experience here. First was that it was extremely cold. All over the room, you could see women who had come prepared to show off arms and shoulders hiding under scarves and even coats. Second was that the time between courses was too long. The service itself was good, but the spacing between courses was more than just being a relaxed pace to let you get a breath between eating.
Now to the food: I started with an excellent
tuna crudo, which was served with the odd combination of an anise madelaine, porcini popcorn, and a halumi crepe. The purple sauerkraut was the most Alsatian portion of my meal and was exquisite. Then I had a fallow venison consommé with juniper berry-scented ravioli and black truffle spheres that helped warm me up from the cold room, but was lacking in flavor. I had purchased the special truffle supplement, so the next course was black truffle shavings covering gnocchi. The gnocchi was nice and light, but unfortunately the black truffles were lacking in both aroma and flavor despite generous helpings. I had never seen so many truffle slices in one pile, so it was very disappointing that they were not potent, possibly from being a bad year? This supplement was way overpriced. Sure truffles are very expensive, but the quality was not worth the price.
Next was foie gras breaded with pain d’épices, apple purée and shaved smoked chocolate. Not your typical was of serving foie gras, but very tasty nonetheless even if it was a little overly sweet. The main course was fallow venison loin with horseradish crêpes, caramelized daikon radish and Sixpoint Oatmeal Stout jus. They carved the venison at the table.
They were out of my dessert choice, so they gave me an additional dessert for free. One was caramel parfait with mango ravioli and coconut-lemongrass tapioca and ten flavor sorbet. While the other was a Nutella chocolate bar and raspberry sorbet.
Overall the ambience was very nice and the room was filled with sophisticated younger diners. The bar is enormous and is a good place to eat as well.
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