Staying with the locals - skip the hotels

When you arrive at the bus station you will encounter many old women with signs for rooms (zimmer/soba). If you know a little Bosnian you can argue the price down quite a bit. I was able to get a room for three for 15 Euro a night and once my host realized I could understand Bosnian she become very friendly. Once we were settled she rushed off to the local bakery and returned with fresh baklava and Turkish coffee for us. For the next hour or so she made me translate her life story to my cousin and his wife. It was amazing to hear about her life under the Tito regime and her fond memories of Yugoslavia. Before we set out for the day she made me a travel map and marked areas I had to visit and the best places to get photos of Stari Most (the famous bridge). Before I left she made me take a business card and gave me her house phone number and told me if I returned I could stay for free w/ her family. If you can, try to learn a little Bosnian before traveling throughout the country, it will take you a long ways and open up an entirely new world. One where you can truly appreciate the hospitality and generosity of the Balkans.