Scott's Cove - roadside fried fish and bammy

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Road A2 , Whitehouse, Jamaica

Scott's Cove - roadside fried fish and bammy Whitehouse Reviews

leah151 leah151
30 reviews
Fried Fish & Bammy: What Jamaicans Eat Feb 12, 2008
If you've never heard of fried fish and bammy, you're missing out on a special treat. "Bammy" is basically like a thick pancake of grated cassava root that is formed either into balls or flat pancakes and fried in coconut oil. It is said to originate with the Arawaks Indians and is coming back into popularity after the tradition almost died out. The flavor is something like a pancake with a tinge of sourdough to it and it is a spongey, fluffy yet dense bread with a crispness to the outside once fried. It is the perfect accompaniment to the plates of fried fish sold at the roadside stand in Scott's Cove. As you approach the border between Westmoreland and St Elizabeth parish, the road (A2) will make a sharp bend and suddenly you'll see a long, curving row of wooden shacks filled with cooks and mainly locals eating sandwiches of bammy folded around chunks of fried fish.

When you first pull over, the vendor attention can be overwhelming as a gang of competing fish and bammy vendors will swarm the vehicle all in hopes of securing your business. Several arms will shove bags of bammy and plates of fish in front of your face through the window even before you have a chance to get out of the car. The best thing to do is go ahead and get out and begin the haggling process while each person convinces you to purchase from them. You'll have to decide how many fish each offer on the platter and for what price. One will ask $1600 JA (about $23 US) for a plate of 5-6 fish and another will come along and offer a plate with 2 more fish for only $1500. After my Jamaican friend haggled a while, we chose the man offering the 7 fish for the low price of $1400 ($20 US). The bammy can also be haggled for although I'm not sure how much we got it for, probably somewhere in the $300-500 JA range if not even less. I let my Jamaican friends do the dirty work since my haggling skills are useless (hopefully a skill I'll learn one day). One woman was quite upset with us and kept telling my friend that, "I approached you first". Somehow, the concept escaped her that we were trying to get the best deal for our dollar and all she could do was give us dirty looks as she sat disgruntled with her plate of as-yet-unsold fish. Since all that 'mad-dogging' was making us uncomfortable, we decided it would be better to take our food and go rather than stay there and endure any more of that. So, with enough fried fish and bammy to feed four of us and have plenty to take home to Grandma, we headed down the road and decided to stop at a beach park to enjoy this Jamaican specialty. Fried fish and bammy is one of those dishes that may take a moment to determine how you feel about it but, as long as you enjoy seafood, once you taste it, you'll keep coming back for more. If you find yourself near Whitehouse, Jamaica at the border of St. Elizabeth and Westmoreland, prepare yourself for some negotiation and pull over, you'll be happy you did! (Next time, I promise to take photos of the fish & bammy.)
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ronman2006 says:
You can find bammy in most supermarkets espceially our two dominant chains which do have rural outlets...the round ones are new concept the traditional way is flat...any oil can be used.

Accurate description of higgler/hawker scene...yes bargaining.haggling is a must incidnetally you could have gotten it cheaper....next time use a tinted car and send them out, white skin and informal vending tends to attract higher prices
Posted on: Mar 01, 2008
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