Pyramids of Dashur
Pyramids of Dashur Dahshur Reviews
Less Crowded and more atmospheric than Giza Jan 02, 2010
Dashur Pyramid Field – 2600 BC
Dashur is the site for two 4th Dynasty Pyramids built by King Sneferu – father of Khufu (the Great Pyramid’s builder). The Bent Pyramid is Egypt’s first proper pyramid, and as such suffered from a serious design flaw and became unstable. To compensate the angle of the building had to be altered. The Bent Pyramid can unfortunately not be entered, though scaffolding to its high entrance can be climbed. The limestone casing is still brilliantly intact. The Bent Pyramid has a few bored security guards hanging around. They may ask for money, but just give them some food/water and chat a little about David Beckham, Egyptian football players in the UK and tell them how good their English is and before you know it they will be your best mates.
From the Bent Pyramid in the distance you can see the striking tall and collapsed pyramid of Amenemhet III. I would love to reach it, but it was about six miles across barren desert. To reach the Bent Pyramid you must drive two kilometres from the Red Pyramid down a desert road. Some taxis aren’t willing to do this, but if you start walking they realise they must wait an extra 90 minutes for you to return and will drive you there after all.
The Red Pyramid was built by Sneferu again, as he obviously wasn’t happy with his chip-shop Bent Pyramid built by his cowboy architects. The Red Pyramid is so called because of its ancient red graffiti, but I didn’t see any. The Red Pyramid is only second in size to the Great Pyramid, and in my opinion is the best pyramid to visit in Egypt. It’s location has a very remote edge-of-the-desert atmosphere, and there are few other tourists. During my visit I was the only person inside the whole pyramid! Take a torch, or rent one from the Egyptians outside. Climbing down a steep shaft then up through burial chambers with only my head torch made for quite an unforgettable Indiana Jones experience. On the way back out, the electricity and lighting came on, briefly illuminating the interior. I’m not sure what happened there, but I suspect they keep it turned off to save on power and make money renting torches.
To get to Dashur, hire a taxi for the day, and include the Saqqara Pyramid field too. There are no charges for entrance at the Dashur Pyramid Field.
Part of the The Pyramids - Thirteen of Them travel blog
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