Maison Clovis Lyon Reviews
For a "royal" lunch at a bargain! Apr 01, 2010
If Clovis was the first King of Franks ruling over Gaul(France),Clovis Khoury from Lebanon reigns supreme over his busy restaurant (seats thirty)designed by Pierre Chaduc with lights in the shape of clouds that move,an open kitchen and a contemporary glass fireplace.
The chef, who has first worked in the famous Phenicia in Beyrouth,was the disciple of Marc Veyrat(Michelin 3 stars) and for seven years of Philippe Gauvreau(2 stars)in La Rotonde Charbonnières and shares his fine cuisine at reasonable prices.
The four of us had the 24 euro 3 course lunch menu with a choice of only one starter and one dessert but of two main courses.
We had,as starter after a mise en bouche, a delicious brandade(brandade is a puree of salt cod,milk and olive oil,a speciality of Nimes in the south of France with most frequently potato added,rarely garlic as in Marseille) on an asparagus carpaccio and crunchy young vegetables.
As main course my friends had a Mediterranean roussette, a very common fish,(dogfish)"roasted on bones","fine nicoise and petits farcis",a nice speciality from Nice with a tomato and basil sauce.
I had a tasty rabbit stuffed with offal,corn and mushroom risotto.
As dessert we all enjoyed bitter chocolate blinis in pistachio emulsion and roasted fruits.
We drank a Saint Véran,a white wine of Burgundy for 24 euro,a cheap price for France.
Some people complain about the service,we didn't.
This chef, who attachs importance to side dishes, has a real talent to prepare "ordinary" products and not everyone is fortunate enough to have this gift!
The new Michelin star is well deserved!
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