La Guarida

La Guarida
CRIOLLA At first glance, you’d never know the dilapidated estate of 418 Concordia would house one of Cuba’s finest eateries. In fact, when first arriving, it may seem the taxi driver has mixed up the address, but a greeter of sorts will be there to let you in to the crumbling old building. The first floor appears to be a construction site, but upon ascending the battered marble steps of the Victorian 30’s-style staircase, you’ll find a discreet wooden door sporting a small sign “La Guarida” and ring the bell. Even though I had a reservation (a necessity at most times of the year), I still had to wait nearly half an hour in the entry way during my first visit to the famed paladar. Lucky for those not seated immediately, even the waiting area of this quaint establishment boasts an impressive display of vintage posters and wall hangings (including flyers from the Cuban flick Fresa y Chocolate, which was filmed inside the restaurant). The two main dining rooms also lodge rotating art exhibits. While many locals and frequent visitors will tell you Guarida offers the finest food in all of Cuba, I’m not completely inclined to agree (I found the most authentic cooking to be in the casas particulares in which I stayed). For me, Guarida’s unique interior was its main draw. Still, there’s no arguing the fact that the food is decadent and you’ll find an eclectic assortment of food to suit any palate—from the house specialty cherna caimanero (red snapper) to non-marine life like duck and quail. An added bonus: the wine list is one of the most extensive in all of Havana.

Concordia 418. [tel] 537-863-7351. [fax] 537-866-9047. Reservations recommended. www.laguarida.com. Main courses 11CUC-17CUC ($12-$18). No credit cards. Daily 7pm-midnight.