Kong Hans Kælder
6 Vingårdstræde, Copenhagen, Denmark
33 11 68 68
Kong Hans Kælder Copenhagen Reviews
The king still got it Oct 13, 2014
If you should name one restaurant in Copenhagen which has really been able to stand the test of time and remain one of the best - if not the best when it comes to a classic eating experience in the city - there really is only one restaurant which comes to mind. Kong Hans Kælder (King Hans Basement).
This place has been a feature on the Copenhagen dining scene since it was created in 1976 - and no matter when you have been looking for a top class meal in Copenhagen in the almost forty years since it has been the place to go. One of the reasons for the place being able to maintain its high quality of food during all this time is the consistency. They only changed the head chef on a very infrequent basis. In fact from 1976 there had only been three head chefs.
The man who introduced top end cooking to Denmark Michel Michaud who seems to have been the head chef on all the best restaurant in all of Denmark during the last 50 years was the first head chef and he was replaced in 1981 and a new change of head chef happened in 1996 when Thomas Rode took over a man so dedicated to the restaurant he actually had the logo tattooed on his chest. But now he has resigned as the head chef leaving the job for his number two in command.
So when we come to the restaurant this evening it is actually interesting to see if the place is living up to the old standards of Kong Hans. We actually arrive at relaunch night - it is the first night the restaurant is open with the new head chef Mark Lundgaard responsible for the kitchen.
The restaurant looks mainly like it usually did - it is still located in the basement below the Magasin shopping center and the old basement located in one of the oldest houses in Copenhagen. The menu kind of looks like it used to do - there is an a la carte menu and then the big eight course menu which is what most people will come and try when they visit the king’s basement.
Before deciding if we want to eat from the menu or the a la carte dishes we are served a series of small snacks which are delicious - but apparently there is a small problem in the kitchen they have run out of salt so when they serve the quail egg they don’t have any salt and have decided to use caviar as a substitute to give the egg a bit of saltiness which works perfectly.
After the snacks we decide to go for the full menu which is clearly the best deal since the a la carte dishes is pretty pricy so the full menu seems better value. The food has always been pretty classic cooking with a bit of inspiration from the new Nordic cooking trends with more and more focus on the local ingredients. The new head chef seems to have been moved the food back in a bit more classical direction with lots of emphasize on amazing ingredients like caviar, oyster, pigeon and rabbit.
The food was amazing and the places was very uncrowded since they only had admitted limited guest during the relaunch phase so the kitchen wouldn’t get overstretch. One of the reasons for this apparently was the fact that they expected a lot of food critics dropping by during the first period after the new head chef took over. It seems to have worked since the review I have seen since the relaunch has given top marks to the restaurant - though this is what you should expect at a place with this kind of price tack and reputation.
Part of the list Best restaurants in Copenhagen
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