Deciding which Islands to Visit

Having grown up in Hawaii, I am always asked for advice on traveling to Hawaii--what to see, what to do, and the most popular question: what island(s) to visit.

I have my favorite islands, but I try to maintain neutrality, as every island is totally unique and offers different experiences for different types of travelers. I will try to summarize and expound on each island here.


=== Oahu ===

Oahu is the "main" island, where the big city of Honolulu is located. Most visitors will find themselves at least passing through Honolulu International airport, as it is the major artery for travel to Hawaii (although a few flights from Japan and the US Mainland enter Kahului, Maui, and Kona, Big Island).

At first glance, Honolulu may just be another big city. For this reason, many people advise against spending your time on Oahu, claiming that it is "just a big city, and you can't experience the natural, native Hawaii." But Oahu is not Honolulu. Oahu offers a lot for a visitor--both in Honolulu, and outside of the city.

The Bus has a great public transportation network within Honolulu, but renting your own car is the best way to explore beyond the city limits.

On Oahu, don't miss:

-- Hanauma Bay is the best place in Hawaii for snorkeling. You can swim along the well-preserved coral reef, where hundreds of Hawaiian fishes will swim around you and nibble on your toes. Snorkeling gear rental is available at the park. Go as early in the morning as possible to see the fish when they're most active, and to beat the crowd.

-- Makapuu Lighthouse Trail is my favorite hike in Hawaii. It is a fairly easy hike with excellent views of Makapuu Lighthouse, Makapuu Beach, the Queen’s Chair natural rock formation, and some nice whale-watching lookout points. Not the most well-known hike yet, so you won't be fighting the crowds.

-- Halona Blowhole is a natural rock formation that acts like a geyser when the waves come in. Located between Hanauma Bay and Makapuu Lighthouse Trail, it is an easy few-minute stop. Just don't jump in.

-- The North Shore is a world-famous surfing area. It is also famous for shaved ice, though I prefer Waiola's shaved ice in Honolulu.

-- Diamond Head State Park. Hike to the summit of Diamond Head Crater (wear sturdy walking shoes, as you'll be climbing lots of stairs). The view from the summit is spectacular.

-- Manoa Falls is a nice waterfall (though the Big Island has better), and the hike to the falls is fairly easy and winds through a lush rainforest.

-- Bishop Museum in Honolulu has a nice Hawaiian history exhibit.

-- USS Arizona memorial has excellent WWII and military history.

-- Polynesian Cultural Center in La'ie is interesting, but very very touristy. This is a luau for beginners.


=== Hawaii (The Big Island) ===

The Big Island offers some of the most unique experiences in Hawaii, unmatched anywhere else in the world! There exists such a diversity of ecosystems and environments on this island alone, and the natural geological and ecological features of the island are very impressive.

This is the newest and largest of the Hawaiian islands, though its towns are small as compared to Honolulu. Kona, on the west side, is very touristy, with the upscale resorts of the Kohala Coast to its north. Hilo, on the wetter, eastern side of the island, is much quieter, but has a nice downtown with many shops and restaurants.

So, visitors to the Big Island typically experience a mix of the stereotypical touristy activities and the more rugged, native Hawaii.

The best way to see the Big Island is to rent a car. This is the only island in Hawaii whose highway makes a complete loop around the island--all of the other islands' loop highways have two dead ends.

Here are the highlights of the Big Island:

-- Mauna Kea, the tallest mountain in the world (from sea floor to summit), is home to some of the world’s leading astronomical observatories. During the winter months, you may find snow at the summit (13,800 feet). I highly recommend visitors to drive to the summit--you will need a four-wheel drive vehicle, but there are organized tours if you don't have your own vehicle. The summit is an otherworldly experience, and the view of the island is breathtaking!

-- Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The active volcano Kilauea pumps lava into the ocean, and visitors can hike to the lava flow. There are numerous other trails and lava tubes to explore; cabins and campgrounds for overnight stay; and impressive views of volcanic craters, old lava flows, and sulfur vents. ...and that's just barely scratching the surface!

-- Punaluu Black Sand Beach is covered in pitch-black sand (created from lava rock). Many native Hawaiian sea turtles (honu) can be seen in the waves and on the sand at this beach. A great experience for wildlife lovers!

-- Akaka Falls is the longest waterfall in Hawaii. Very impressive, and there is an easy, paved hike through the rainforest to get to the viewing area. Your first stop along the hike will be sister Kahuna Falls, which is not quite as impressive as Akaka.

-- Waipio Valley is a lush, green valley, with an untouched beach. Most visitors simply stop at the lookout, but you can hike down into the valley (very very tough hike) or take a mule-ride tour. In Waipio Valley, people live like their native Hawaiian ancestors did hundreds of years ago.

-- The Hamakua Coast is home to many small towns and scenic gorges. These towns are remnants of the old sugar plantation days, and some of the old structures still remain. While there isn't much to any of these towns, they are excellent places to step back in time and get some unique photos.

-- South Point is the southernmost point in the United States. A marker designates the spot.

-- Parker Ranch in Waimea (Kamuela) is the largest privately-owned ranch in the United States. Their tours are very educational, and the pasturelands are beautiful.

-- Lili'uokalani Park in Hilo was modeled after a traditional Japanese garden, complete with fish ponds and tea houses. It was built as a tribute to the Japanese immigrants in Hawaii.

-- Agricultural tours. Kona coffee plantations (in Kona), Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut headquarters (Hilo), and orchid farms (between Hilo and Volcano).


=== Maui ===

Maui is one of the most touristy islands, though many unspoiled parts of the island can still be found. The Lahaina, Kaanapali, and Kapalua resort areas on the northwestern side are most developed and touristy. Central Maui, while developed, is more local and less touristy.

Maui is famous for the former whaling industry (many remnants can be found in Lahaina) and pineapple farms (central Maui).

Again, renting a car is the best way to see Maui, as public transportation is limited. Here are some things to see and do:

-- Haleakala, the "House of Rising Sun" is the most famous mountain on Maui. It is home to the very endangered silversword (a relative of aloe, I believe). The best time to visit Haleakala is at an ungodly early hour, so you get there in time to see the sun rise. There are bike tours which drive visitors to the Haleakala summit in time for the sunrise, then you coast downhill on a bike--you supposedly pedal twice before coasting the rest of the way.

-- Hana is a tiny, isolated town on the far east side of Maui. The road to Hana is narrow, unpaved, and curvy, but it offers some of the most spectacular views of the coastline, rainforest, and small roadside waterfalls. This drive is becoming more and more popular, so Hana may not be as isolated and untouched as it once was.

-- 'Iao Valley is a nice green park, home to the famous 'Iao Needle natural rock formation.

-- Snorkelers may enjoy tours to Molokini Atoll, a half-sunken extinct volcano a few miles off of Maui's west coast. The only drawback? Tours to Molokini are very very touristy.

-- Maui is famous for Sam Sato's saimin (like ramen noodles) and Tasaka guri guri (kind of like gelato). I definitely recommend these eats, which are not available outside Maui!


=== Kauai ===

Kauai is known to visitors as the most "natural" of the islands. I don't necessarily agree with that, but of the most-visited islands (Oahu, Big Island, Maui, Kauai), Kauai is definitely the most natural.

Kauai offers beautiful scenery and breathtaking geology. The film "Jurassic Park" was filmed in the sweeping, green valleys of Kauai. The towns are very small and laid-back. The lifestyle on Kauai is slow and down-to-earth, with many reminders of the plantation days. Even with the few upscale resorts, Kauai is not overrun with tourists.

Public transportation is limited, so you really need to rent a car.

Do not miss:

-- Na Pali Coast. This may be what Kauai is most famous for. Very steep, shear, rugged cliffs, covered in greenery. These cliffs are located on the northwestern coastline of the island. They are mostly inaccessible because they are so steep, except for the far eastern reaches of the Na Pali, at Haena State Park. Helicopter tours fly over the Na Pali for better views, but they are very expensive.

-- Waimea Canyon is known as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." It is nice, though nowhere near as impressive as the real Grand Canyon. There are many hikes and excellent photo opportunities.

-- Kilauea Lighthouse is a popular spot for tourists on the north side of the island, overrun with seagulls.

-- Drive along the coastal highway from end to end. Stop at roadside waterfalls, taro fields, and unique old plantation towns. This is the best way to experience Kauai and the lifestyle.


=== Molokai ===

Molokai is one of the smaller, less-inhabited islands. Few visitors venture to Molokai. Actually, few Hawaii residents ever go to Molokai.

This is my choice for most "natural" Hawaiian island. The slow way of life on Molokai is special, and is worth two days if you have the time.

Be sure to visit the Kalaupapa Peninsula on the northern side of the island, which was a leprosy colony in the late 1800s through mid 1900s. It was so chosen because of its isolation at the base of very steep cliffs (similar to Kauai's Na Pali cliffs). Kalaupapa is accessible only by plane, boat, or on a mule tour down the steep cliffside (it is a dirt switchback trail). A few residents still live in Kalaupapa, and its tumultuous history is very interesting.

The "phallic rocks" are, well, phallic. Worth a few minute stop, just because there isn't much else to see on Molokai.


=== Lanai ===

Lanai is a very small island with very small population. Its main attractions are some fancy resorts (Bill Gates of Microsoft rented out the entire island for his wedding a few years ago). Pineapple farming is a source of income, though it is not a large tourist attraction. Many people visit Lanai for hunting the wild deer that inhabit the island. Most residents of Hawaii have never been to Lanai.


=== Ni'ihau ===

Ni'ihau is the only privately-owned island. It has been owned by one family since the 1800s. The famous Ni'ihau shells (often made into necklaces) are found only on Ni'ihau, but the jewelry can be purchased on other islands. The family who owns Niihau offers some hunting and shell-searching tours, though they are very expensive.


=== Kaho'olawe ===

Kaho'olawe is a former U.S. military practice bombing range. There are still many undetonated land mines. Access to the island is prohibited.